Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, i have a nissan r33gtst and i have just recently put new light bulbs in as the old ones failed. but now when the lights are on im experiencing a rough idle and eventually my car will stall!!!

anyone else experience this or know why it is happening?? my appreciation for help in advance. :P

cheers james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/151424-turn-on-lights-loss-of-power/
Share on other sites

Sounds like a short in the electrical system in your car.. that could have caused the globes to burn out in the first place... have you installed any electronic devices recently? or check all the wiring for any aftermarket devices such as turbo timer, CD player, Amp .etc.

Get an auto electrician to check it out

Cheers

Edited by QRI05E

Check all the engine earths and also the earth on the headlights, make sure there is no corrosion build up around these areas.

Did both headlights blow at the same time? or did only one go and then you decided to replace both?

Alternator could also be on its last legs, you need to see what the current jump is on the battery with a multimeter when you start the car to know if its dieing. You can check the alternator directly too but you still need to grab a multimeter. Check the earths first, also put the inerior light on and the A/C and see if it will die by using other items.

Edited by James_03

i find i have the same problem at night time, when im driving car feels like i take my foot off the gas then comes back in also have the bad idle at night while lights are on.. im gonna buy a volt stabalizer thingo n see how that goes, even if it doesnt help alot it wouldnt hurt to have one i guess

when i install this im also puttin new battery in

Edited by 2gceffy

It sounds like your alternator. Best way to check it is to start your car and then disconnect one of the terminals from your battery. If the car turns off its your alternator but if it doesn't then its something else.

disconnecting the battery while engine is running is a risk to damage the alternator`s governor.

to check alternator just measure voltage @battery terminals, normal value is 12.3-12.8v with engine off and ~ 13.2-14.5v with engine on and healthy alternator.

hey i have checked my voltage and it all seems to be fine about 14.4-14.3 with car started and everything going flat out, lights and aircond. while i was looking over everythig i noticed that there was a steel rope kinda thing only small tht looks like it was connected to my catalytic, but no longer is. i reconnected it and ill see how that goes. anyone know what that is???

ps.. im not that crash hot with car electrics... :(

temperature sensor for the cat. if the cat gets too hot a dash light shows up to let you know.

shouldn't normally happen unless there's something wrong or you're driving it like it's stolen, but might as well have it plugged in since it's there!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Depending on how long the car sat it is very possible for injectors to be stuck open or closed, I'd get them cleaned and flow tested. Other than that, obviously when the loom changes and the car doesn't start any more....the loom is suspect so some tracing / comparing may be required
    • Harness is for a s1 Rb25det, and it is engine and lower harness.  the old harness had broken off plugs and was in very rough condition/exposed wires and splices etc. it is not able to be put back on the car, I could visually inspect to see if they had rewired any pins on the ecu plug. The fuel pump definitly isn’t turning off it’s an external pump and very loud you can hear it. Will look at the other harness tonight, am also going to pull the fuel rail and watch the injectors spray, will update here with what I find. Pretty sure at this point it has to be something to do with injectors because car will fire up on starting fluid and cas is clicking the Injectors. Fuel pressure is steady 43psi 
    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
×
×
  • Create New...