Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yesturday i put a boost controller into my car and am runing it on the normal psi,

its linked to a switch on the dash that i turn on and turns it to 13 psi but when ever i do it now even with normal psi it makes a very loud squeeking sound from the engine bay n i dont no what it is.

It only does it when i am driving but not when i rev it in my drive way, there is also no smell when it does it or when i have stoped

when the noise happens the car looses alot of power and runs pretty rough during hi revs

can some 1 please help

Edited by Buddy

a guy told me that if could be the blow off value leaking cause the spring in it was f**ked which was understandable cause of pressure of 13 psi but i took it off and put a metal plate inplace but still does exactly the same noise and power loss

noone can tell u what the problem is without seeing the car mate...theres a few things that could be wrong...could have a boost leak..check ur cooler piping or like the first guy said it could be that ur turbo gasket is screaming cos the turbos come loose...anyone else with ideas??

When the gaskets leak, they make a high pitch noise, normally when they'er being revved under load (Accelerating up the street)

It's normally a small hole, that if on an N/A car, wouldn't make an issue, as it's easier for the gasses to flow out the exhaust pipe normally, but on a turbo car, a small pressure build up occurs between motor and turbo, hence, it forces it's way out the whole.

Could also be the boost controller is broken. Have you returned the boost controller set up back to stock to try that?

do u mean this part that could be lose? cause i have tried every bolt around there and i cant move any i have also checked every intercooler connection for holes and even spayed carbi cleaner on it at idle to see if it done anything

turbo.jpg

Edited by Buddy

My brothers old turbo (on his silvia @ 15psi) made some terrible squealing noises under full boost, when he got it serviced they found that the fins on the compressor wheel had bent back and the air was not getting through properly into the housing.

It was more like someone with a external gate when it was squealing...

Hope this helps?

exhaust manifold bolts broken/loose as well as turbo gaskets are the obvious things. had same noise under boost, but i could still hear it when reving not under load. was initially an exhaust leak from the turbo dump but it came back after a while. had my exhaust manifold bolts and all gaskets replaced from that and the turbo and now the noise is gone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
    • Yes then it will turn on but I want the car features to work  
    • My thought is if you were just moving it forward and the upstream geometry remained the same, then no difference at all. But because the current one has the filter direct into the AFM inlet, you effectively have the best chance of a completely symmetric air flow profile upstream, and in, the AFM, whilst the aftermarket inlet thingo has a (small, to be sure) bend between the filter and the AFM. That would bias the flow to the outside of the bend (downstream of the bend) which might well reduce the size of the signal seen by the AFM, for the same total flow rate. Having said that: If you're proposing to make your inlet look like a hybrid of your existing one and the aftermarket one, such that there is no bend where the filter is clamped on... then I say it will be just fine. If there is going to be such a bend, then, if you can align the insertion of the AFM blade such that it is at right angles to the plane of the bend, then there is a better than even chance that the centreline velocity where the blade is will remain more or less the same, and the velocity will just be a little faster to the outside of that, and just a little slower to the inside. **This is not professional investment advice and you should consult a suitably qualified ouija board, tea leaves or the intestines of a goat for more accurate prognostication.
    • Hi Tao, Thanks for your reply.  It's been a while and I managed to get the valve stem seals replaced with the head on the car.  Unfortunately this didn't solve my issue, the car still smokes a lot after idling (to be honest during idle you can see a bit of blue smoke from the exhaust), same after deceleration. I will try disconnecting the valve cover breathers, do I leave the PCV valve in? By engine oil drain pipe, do you mean the turbo oil drain?
    • What about if you just give it direct 12v and earth?
×
×
  • Create New...