Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all, weird sale, but i have $225 at alljap wreckers at nerang on the gold coast, i have it left over after i rebuilt stuff on my car to bring it to a newer look..

alljap was the main place i could find parts for a skyline, and no other places had any series 2 parts, but these guys did.. main point.. if any one needs any parts, let me know, and ill ring them and get it down from there wharehouse in brisbane if its not at there nerang wharehouse... would rather have someone spend the whole credit, and if they do, ill sell them the part cheap. eg: $225 for the part, ill sell it to you for $160 thats $75 off.. any takers for parts?

Edited by seriesII
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152435-alljap-wreckers-credit/
Share on other sites

should be at nerang.. goood place, best ive seen off, had alot more then rollins for sure... haha, is weird sale.. hah, but, good if ya need something stock for your car?, and saving some cash?, ill find out any parts, and they test there parts before they buy them, or take them of a car..

Alljap Auto Parts

9 Hilldon Crt Nerang QLD 4211

ph: (07) 5596 0485 Auto Parts Recyclers

hey, yup, thats right.. that would be even beta if you called hey.. much easier.. ).. let me know. yeah... $250 and you only pay $160.. keep me posted and ill pick it up and pay for it, or how ever you wanna do it.. i dont mind the drive :D..

or, if you need a part thats $300, ill do the $225 and you pay the difference, and ill only charge the $160 and the guy at the store will charge you any extra the part was..

eg: $300 part.. ill pay $225, and you pay $235 all up for your $300 part.. ill just meet who ever there at any time, i work for my self, so i can take a break when ever :)

Edited by seriesII
  • 2 weeks later...

I'm chasing an engine mount front left for a CA18DE S13 Silvia and also an a/c compressor for the same car. Asian Auto spares quoted me $75 for the mount and $50 for the compressor which comes to $125. Let me know how much you can get them for.

Thanks!

hhehe, $85, cause ill drive there and get the part , its like $7 of fuel for me there and back :)and to drop[ it some were near you.. unless you wanna meet me there?.. $80 if you meet me at alljap :")

u knw if they have any CA18DET running engines and looms up at nerang?

hey, not that i have ever seen of in there, just looks like a huge wharehouse with parts in sections. maby try rma at southport?, they have full cars there, if ya lucky, walk in, get him to start it when the cars up and pick your part :laugh: .. only place i seen that has done that for me so far :P..hope it helped

so alljap has no engines..? the underwood one does.. oh well. ill let u knw mate. but im in need of a working CA18DET and ECU.. :) if u can help that will be great >_<

ohh hey, sorry, im sure they have full working engines.. sorry, i thought you meant, working, as the motor is there and can start up for you live (in a car or what ever) haha.. i would say full engines and any parts like that would be no prob.. im getting a few parts at the moment for a guy on here so ill see how much credit is left and see what i can get for you...

I'm chasing an engine mount front left for a CA18DE S13 Silvia and also an a/c compressor for the same car. Asian Auto spares quoted me $75 for the mount and $50 for the compressor which comes to $125. Let me know how much you can get them for.

Thanks!

hey, got the engine mount, ill meet you around the spit on sunday.. parts in good condition, bit oily, but thats a good thing :)

ohh hey, sorry, im sure they have full working engines.. sorry, i thought you meant, working, as the motor is there and can start up for you live (in a car or what ever) haha.. i would say full engines and any parts like that would be no prob.. im getting a few parts at the moment for a guy on here so ill see how much credit is left and see what i can get for you...

haha.. so they cant start it up for me...? :) they got compression tests on the engines?

let me knw what u find. even if u got only a bit of credit left im still interested..

thanks

mark.

  • 2 months later...


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...