Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi i have a r32 gts-t, would like to sell or swap for something of interest..

Car is in good condition.

Mods are:

R34 gtt rb25det neo engine fully nsw engineered!

rb25det 5 speed box recoed 2000ks ago straight cut first to third,c4 tolerance bearings slightly noisy but very tough cost 2k.

New modified tail shaft new uni's etc

r32gtr speedo drive.

18" 235 40 18 wheels and tyres

Trust 450x300x100 front mount stainless plumbing

3" cat back exhaust

stainless split dump pipe

New castor rods

tein rear struts

front kyb struts

new front upper control arms

timing belt changed 4000 k's ago

water pump changed 4000k's ago

timing belt tensioners changed 4000k's ago

Only imperfections paint starting to fade slightly

Front bar has cracks...

16k firm or swap for some thing decent,not desperate to sell the car!

Car was dynoed 181.3 rwkw @8psi.post-27527-1169204285.jpgpost-27527-1169204503.jpgpost-23930-1129475173.jpgpost-27527-1169204781.jpgpost-27527-1169204900.jpg

post-27527-1169204646.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/152478-r32-gts-t-rb25det-neo-powered/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...