Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Might be a while till this one's running (~1 month I guess?) cos yeah, Simon's slack and I dont wanna rush this one. Last time I rushed a bargain, it blew up in my face...

The car's not gonna be stupidly powerful for a while, maybe just 220rwkw with an R33 turbo and VG30 rear housing (basically R34 turbo). That'll do me for a while till I have the funds to get the GT3076R, just means I'll have full boost at around 1500rpm :rolleyes: Just have to make sure it doesn't choke up too early, which I still think it will, even with the VG30 rear housing :(

Only doing this because it was cheaper (about half the price) than buying an RB25 :thumbsup: Found an RB25 gearbox too, so just need to get a little bit more money together and that should be all good too :) Well that's a lie, I cant hang my hat on my driving, so I'll have to hang it on my car :ph34r: Always gotta be one better :) Hayden could definitely be happier, I'll tell you that much :)

Edited by salad
  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Oi! Shut up, those bearings are mint. :thumbsup:

I think the thing that needs to be sorted out for the new engine is oil pump... As long as that's fine, then she'll be sweet.

Edited by salad
  • 2 months later...

OK, the RB30DET is FINALLY in, spent far too long waiting for the head, but eh, you get that.

Engine is mounted heaps lower, bout 30mm, heaps lower than most guys with RB30s.

Started it on Saturday, but got a small hiccup, oil spewed out everywhere from the oil pump, so now we have to rip that out, so timing belt, and sump off... Big job ;)

So close yet so far away...

Was run straight out the dump pipe though, fark did it sound tough!

This weekend, we're ripping the oil pump off and doing all we can to get it sealing, should be alright with a proper gasket in there though... :rofl:

So should be running properly this weekend, and then I'll get it off to a dyno ASAP. :)

Will post up updates as they come.

:rofl: I spent too long waiting for the head to get done! Waited damn near 2 months for that, in the past 3 weeks, Simon and I (mostly Simon, cheers bloke) have built the engine, put it in the car, and made everything fit.

Just gotta sort out all the problems that pop up now... Like the oil pump!

....VL engines are sick, broooooooooo

Edited by salad

Bit over $4000... :P

Engine - $1000

Valve springs - $300

Turbo - $300

Gearbox - $1200

Clutch - $650

Slave Cylinder - $95

Tailshaft mod - $220

And various other costs, fluids, gaskets, silicon, blah blah blah

I started pretty much from nothing, so that's why the cost is so high. And that cost only includes the labour for the tailshaft, havn't paid for any other labour...

Right now it's not looking the best, it appears that a sponge/rag or something got left in the oil gallery of the bottom end and now it's all throughout the motor. Pulling the sump off tomorrow to try and get all the shit out... It keeps blocking the oil pick up and causing it to drop oil pressure :P

Edited by salad

My best guess is, someone stuck it up there on the end of a pole in an attempt to clean stuff, and then lost it up there and thought, "Oh shit, better flog it off".

Ohwell, it SHOULD be all good after we pull the sump off tomorrow.

Good news is, there's no smoke, just rags in the oil...

Engine came with everything, complete long motor, with loom, ECU etc.

Had to use my old RB20 exhaust manifold, harmonic balancer, p/s pump, alternator, a/c. Slapped on RB25 turbo oil pump and a freshly cleaned out sump.

Valve springs - uprated stuff from Performance Springs in QLD

Turbo - RB25 turbo with VG30 rear housing. Got a blow VG30 turbo for free from Ryan (Kansai), cheers bloke

Gearbox - RB25

Slave cylinder - stock Nissan item

Clutch - Exedy 3puck sports ceramic

Tailshaft mod - R33 yoke onto R32 tailshaft.

Engine mounts - cut and shut, motor sits about 30mm lower now.

Dump pipe - cut and shut to sit about 10mm further down.

Edited by salad

IT LIVES!!!! ;):):(;)

Will be getting it tuned on Wednesday and straight out to Mallala on Saturday to have a crack at pulling a 1:22 :D

Farkin amazing to drive so far, so much pull from down low!

Just had it tuned this morning

RB30DETboost.jpgNew RB30DET

RB30DETvsRB20DET.jpgRB30DET (black) vs RB20DET with GCG highflow (red)

206rwkw on 10psi.

Keeping it real safe and dont need much boost to make power and make the car move. Clearly shown by the comparison with the RB20 + GCG highflow torque curves.

Basically, it's like an NA car to drive now, put your foot down and it goes, at almost any RPM, except for maybe under 1500... :thumbsup:

Edited by salad
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...