Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, i bought what i think isa s1 r33 steering wheel, looks quite similar to an r32 m spec one..

Anyway, it bolts up ok and looks wicked compared to my completely torn type s steering piece ov crap i had b4.. The way in which the horn operates in the new wheel is different from how it operates in the old wheel.. The standard setup used like a little brass button that brushed up against a metal plate connected to the steering wheel. This brass button has 12volts goen through it obviously.

I know its pretty damn hard to give me any good answers without photos and if i get no replies ill try and get some photos posted up here to explain better.

Bassically i ran a 12volt from the column into the steering wheel, the horn then worked so i putit back 2gether and went for a drive.. Stupid me didnt think that as soon as i turned the wheel the wire would snap.

Does anyone know how im supposed to get 12v's accros to the horn button now?? going by the photos iv seen on the net of gtr steering wheels it seems they are designed the same way as this 33 one iv got..

Thanks for any help.. Believe me it would be appreciated cos i need my horn to work...

oh and indicator doenst turn off after exiting corners now but i know thats a normal problem to have when switching wheels and i might be able to fix that..

CHeers

They usually have a circular strip of metal that is constantly in contact with the button as you turn the wheel.

You could always get a R32 GTR wheel which is also similar to the ones you speak of and at a guess would fit up easier than an R33 one does...

Deren

yeah that circular strip of metal you mentioned is what my old one has. The only reason i got this steering wheel was because i gotit for really cheap and i thought i would be able to make it work..Im low on cash but wanted something that looks good 2. All i gotta do is get the horn to work and ill be happy with it..

I find it strange that the r33 one doesnt have that circular strip ov metal because i cant figure out any other way of them getting contant power accross to the wheel... Wierd.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...