Jump to content
SAU Community

I Want I Want!

Hella Flush

By Hella Flush,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

attempted the white dial mod to dash cluster last nite

took 2 smokes straight and i had it done with all the green caps removed and reinstalled (did it in carpark whilst eating hj's as i always carry 3 toolboxes with me full of tools (just incase!))

only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating... so im wondering how to fix this? it has been mentioned to use thinners on the dials to remove the green?

any recommendations?

look closer at the pic i supplied up top there is no green on the cluster... he has removed the factory green on the dials... will thinners work and not f**k shit up? what to use?

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted
only problem... they were a yellow tinge... so today took cluster out again and installed phillips ultravission hyperwhite/blue globes...

the cluster is now super bright - i love it... however it now has a green tinge due to the factory dials green coating...

In the same boat, the cluster looked orange, so I used three T-10 Narva Arctic Blue bulbs and the green coating is now visible. I couldn't find anything T-5 sized though, except for these Monza LED bulbs, but I chose blue and it actually coloured that part of the dash blue. :)

I'm hoping this green coating comes off with a wipe of thinners :(

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i hope so too as im super keen to get uber white

also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted
also noticed that 1 of the smaller bulbs (not parker size) lights up the speedo from 120-180... so everything on my dash is bright and tinged green apart from that part which is duller and yellow

This is the T-5 bulb that I was talking about, I'm gonna go looking in other auto shops today for something suitable.

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

led bulbs look shit... just want normal white

went to autobarn - narva do have t5 sized wedge bulbs... i picked one up $2 each... its just normal white not arctic however they said they do do a super white led t5 size - which i will try after i try this normal narva t5 bulb... i really dont wanna use led's as it will mean having to replace all the phillips ultravision ones i just bought and wont be as bright...

just need this green coating gone - whats the go???????

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

tried to remove the t5 bulb from its holder... it wont come out! not without breaking it... and had a better luke at the new t5 bulb i got which is just basically a new factory normal one so i dont think itll do much

sent the mrs off on a mission tomorrow to find an ultrawhite t5 to match the t10 phillips ones ive put in

she also came up with the idea of tinting the clear plastic cluster cover in 20% tint... so shes doing that tomorrow (hope it doesnt turn out shit!)

toffy Veteran

toffy

Posted
Posted

ok i finally got home from working on my car, i tried the thinner thing and it works.... but i wouldnt suggest it because it works on the plastic too lol, if your very careful it will look good , i didnt have another part to the cluster to try prepwash on but i think that will do the job perfect. pics in the morning... its sleep time now :D

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

when f**king around withe my cluster again last nite

i noticed on the back of each dial up to about 80 it is green... then 90 to about 130 or something the lines are white on the back... then green again to 180... wtf?

take pics of the back of the actual dials removed from the cluster? how did it go getting the white and green off? also that shit doesnt feel like it would come off... it sounds like a zipper when you run your fingernail over it

Hella Flush Experienced

Hella Flush

Posted
  • Author
Posted

SCORE!

gf did browsing on the auctions this morning. 90-91 cefs had completely different clusters with factory white... i just purchased one now which will be here in 2 weeks... tacho goes up to 9k instead of 8k aswell

no more dicking around with factory cluster

now we wait... if anyonelse wants a late model cluster i can get several more... pm me :action-smiley-069:

ill put pics up tonite of one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By Duncan · Posted

      The price of every automatic S2 stagea in japan has suddenly doubled
    • sunsetR33
      newbie attempts the GTR life.

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      thanks mate, one of the reasons I even bought it to be fair.
    • sunsetR33
      RB26 turbo oil banjo bolts

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I found parts on EFI Solutions webshop that seemed to be the accurate ones. I haven't gotten around to fitting the turbos back on the car yet since I still have to deal with the shitty crack in the engine block. But I'm confident that the bolts I ordered will fit. According to EFI they are also 7-16/24. The reason M11x1 got involved here is because it is apparently very similar to 7-16/24.
    • Kaptain
      R33 general questions

      By Kaptain · Posted

      Well, to be fair to the car I've driven it daily for almost a decade now, although in that time only put on 50k, as it just recently passed 100k miles early this year. For the most part its been fine because I've been able to source parts from AUS like jacks jdm and a few places in Japan, some things like pads have been easy since 300z pads swap right in... I realize its probably at that time in its life i should find a new DD (but I rent and only have so much space, no garage) so new cars just complicate things. As it is older though, I recognize its about that time as with my '67 GTO to maybe side step and find an alternative, but if i can keep driving it... I want to.   That said, I may just look into a local shop that might be able to, problem is the mechanic I work with has limited space as a mom and pop operation, and he's a busy busy man, so id need to find out if he can keep the car in the meantime, which may or may not be practical for him. Maybe I'll just buy one off jacks jdm and get that refurbed /shrug.. just looking at options and what others may have to offer for advice on the matter. Like I said, its hard finding people around here who actually have one, I've had mine 9 and a half years and I've met 3 others, and they are all military, one was oem from 95 with 30k miles (rip that car... guy got hit after someone crossed s double yellow, totaled it)
    • zoomzoom
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By zoomzoom · Posted

      I've noticed my rear springs sag a bit compared to the fronts. I have stock springs and KYB struts. The front wheels are pretty consistent in their ride height, but compared to the front wheels, one of the rears sits 20mm lower, and the other 40mm lower. This negatively affects the ground clearance, and also angles the headlights up. What are some some economical options for new springs? Or information like good spring rates, lengths  in order to find a suitable replacement etc Far from lowering the car, I'd prefer to raise it a bit to keep it ground clearance friendly.
×
×
  • Create New...