Jump to content
SAU Community

200sx S15 Bilstein, Whiteline, Eibach & Noltec Suspension


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hey SK, I didn't want to flood your inbox, so i thought i'd post here.

What's the latest between the whiteline merger?

Been waiting for months as alot of other people and still keen.

Quite a few kits have been supplied, there is stock of all parts, except stabiliser bars which take 4 working days to make. Of course the stock moves every day, but no long delays that I can forsee.

:D cheers :D

very interested....

do these come with a warrnty if so how long and whats the procedure?

say when the time comes to get new shocks can our local bilstein supplier refit new shocks at the right valve rates or do we need to send it back to u etc?

finally is there sitll a bottle neck with whiteline or has that all been sorted out?

-Peak

SK can you please provide some answers, i am extremely intrested in getting a set for my s15.

whats the final eta for the full coilover to be made and delivered, are you using bilstien or eibach helper springs? evade i think got bilstein ones...?

Edited by morph.
SK can you please provide some answers, i am extremely intrested in getting a set for my s15.

whats the final eta for the full coilover to be made and delivered, are you using bilstien or eibach helper springs? evade i think got bilstein ones...?

Delivery took approx 1 week for my road kit. absolutely no dramas at all...

If you go for the road kit, you get whiteline springs to go with the bilstein shocks, if you go for the road/track kit the coilovers come equiped with eibach springs

Edited by Puku
QUOTE(morph. @ 2 Jun 2007, 03:25 PM)

very interested....

1. do these come with a warrnty if so how long and whats the procedure?

2. say when the time comes to get new shocks can our local bilstein supplier refit new shocks at the right valve rates or do we need to send it back to u etc?

3. finally is there sitll a bottle neck with whiteline or has that all been sorted out?

-Peak

SK can you please provide some answers, i am extremely intrested in getting a set for my s15.

4. whats the final eta for the full coilover to be made and delivered

5. are you using bilstien or eibach helper springs?

6. evade i think got bilstein ones...?

Suggestions to the questions as follows;

1. Each of the items comes with the manufacturer's normal warranty. Refer to the Whiteline, Redranger and Bilstein web sites for further info.

So far over 100 kits delivered and not one warranty claim.

2. Bilsteins are serviceable, by any Bilstein agent, the valving is clearly marked, so easy to duplicate.

But are you seriously going to keep your car for 100,000 k's, because that's about how long the Bilsteins will last before they require servicing.

3. Delivery is OK out of Redranger now, some items are a bit slower than they should be, but it's not terrible.

4. The stabiliser bars (at 4 days) are the longest, as we don't keep stock of the unique Group Buy bars. Plus a day or two for delivery via Toll, to most places, add a day for Tas and WA.

5. Eibach make coils for Bilstein, only the colour is different. If you have a colour preference (red or blue) I can accomodate that, I can even do purple if you want.

6. Yes, I think he did.

:) cheers :domokun:

Hi SK.

Is it possible to get Eibach Springs with the road kit? I enjoy the fact that they're a very consistent brand and would like to use them.

And does it cost extra to accomodate purple springs =P?

You also have another pm from me.

ta

Thanks bud.

you now can take CC yea?

Yep, credit card is OK, no Diners or Amex though, they charge toooooo much.

:( cheers :(

Hi SK.

Is it possible to get Eibach Springs with the road kit? I enjoy the fact that they're a very consistent brand and would like to use them.

And does it cost extra to accomodate purple springs =P?

You also have another pm from me.

ta

Sorry, Eibach don't make Skyline coils. Don't be concerned with any perceived technical difference though, the Whiteline coils in the Group Buy are cold wound on a hydraulic winding machine, the same as Eibach.

No extra charge in the Road and Track kit for purple, in fact they are a little bit cheaper.

Sorry for the delay in responding to PM's, the S13/14/15 guys need lots of information and in each PM they have heaps of questions.

:( cheers :(

got my PM sk? payment details please thnx

Only 22 more PM's to go till I get to yours.

Time for sleeping now, I reckon I will get to it around lunch time tomorrow.

:D cheers :(

Hi guys,

You may have read that i have SK's complete 32 Bilstein kit to my car. It fantastic and i am very happy with it having driven it on the track as well.

I am about to buy a Liberty 2.5 litre turbo GTSpec B(Bilstein suspension) for my wife. I have test driven it and can honestly say that i was dissapointed with it's ride compared to the Skyline. Overall good, but not as compliant and a "jiggly" ride.

I feel i am in a good position to compare SK's S13 package when it's released as i will purchase the complete track kit. As a baseline, my times at QR are below.

Current set-up

HKS Hypermax2 7kg with front camber tops 5kg rears

Tune agent castor arms

Rear tune agent camber, toe and thrust arms

Whiteline adjustable sway bars

Rear alighment kit

I am not a great driver but am learning. SK will say that the rear is too stiff, so ii purchased a set of 4kg springs for the rear to help offset the oversteer. I have not fitted these yet as i wanted to get a baseline for comparison. The car is difficult to drive on the limit as the Dunlop Direzza's DZ02 don't provide the feedback the DJ01's did. I had to go up from 16 inch to 17 inch to fit over my front calipers- the reason for the change in tyre.

Current settings

L R

Castor 7.1 7.1

Camber -3.2 -3.0 (wasn't enough on front left- need at least 4.0)

toe 0 0

Swaybar Softest setting

Rear

toe +1mm +1mm

Camber -1.0 -1.0 (need probably -1.5 left rear)

Swaybar Middle setting

Hope this will be of some benefit. I'll post the differences once the package is on the car and track day completed.

Of note is the 32 suspension package is much nicer and easier to drive than the current S13 set up

Edited by Simonster
Just installed them.

Is 20mm of suspension travel at the rear about right? Hub centre to guard at 340mm.

med_gallery_1903_124_10902.jpg

Ride height is around 30 mm lower than standard. You can get another 15 mm with the low profile front strut top. Then use the extra circlip grooves on the rear Bilsteins to lower the rear a similar amount. That's about as low as you want to go for good handling and ride comfort.

Initially, I thought it's a fully height adjustable coilover, as such should be able to go as low as 330mm, which I assumed from looking at the bumpstop trimming suggestion and the "30mm lower than standard" post.

So I installed the coilovers at Centreline with a height setting of 340mm at the rear an 330mm in front. Then I encountered bottoming out issues occasionally and a metal to metal hitting noise once in awhile. So I pmed SK and this he mentioned that:

330 mm is way too low at the front, we never go below 360 mm. Get Chris to show you the lower control arm angles and explain the dynamic camber change problem and the bump steer that occurs at anything lower than 360 mm.

340 mm is way too low at the rear, we never go below 350 mm. So also get Chris to show you the upper and lower control arm angles and explain the dynamic camber change problem and the bump steer that occurs at anything lower than 350 mm. Also take a look at the drive shaft angles which are costing you horsepower due to the extreme CV angles at that height.

The metal to metal is possibly the lower control arm hitting the subframe, get Chris to check it for you.

None of the above has anything to do with springs and shocks, you simply are at a height which is way below the limit of the suspension geometry of an S15.

Look at the bumpstop trimming pic, does the standard->350mm look like a 30mm difference?

Anyway, on my stock setup, my hub centre to guard height is 350mm on my 17" aftermarket rims. And yes, I'm surprised that the coilovers aren't designed to go lower.

Just a note for people since the suggested ride height hasn't really been mentioned before.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...