Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day guru's,

Would really appreciate some help with this!

2 weeks ago I had my R33 GTST Bilstein and Whiteline GB parts installed (basically everything listed) at the recommended place listed on the Group Buy page for my area. Driving around it seemed fine, felt nice etc - until a couple of days ago.

I noticed weird sounds coming from around the front left wheel area while driving. It sounded like a slight grinding noise, and also some squeaks and 'bangs'. I thought it might be because we have had some really hot days all in a row lately - might be the bushes squeaking or something.

Today I decided to see if I could see anything weird in the front left suspension area, and this is what I saw:

hailsuspension012fg7.th.jpg

Is this dangerous?

Should this have happened with just normal driving on the streets after 2 weeks?

What could have caused this?

Is this going to throw out my settings?

Sorry for the wall of questions :cheers:

I can post up the suspension tuning settings if that is any help too.

Much appreciated guys!

Thanks,

Adam

G'day guru's,

Would really appreciate some help with this!

2 weeks ago I had my R33 GTST Bilstein and Whiteline GB parts installed (basically everything listed) at the recommended place listed on the Group Buy page for my area. Driving around it seemed fine, felt nice etc - until a couple of days ago.

I noticed weird sounds coming from around the front left wheel area while driving. It sounded like a slight grinding noise, and also some squeaks and 'bangs'. I thought it might be because we have had some really hot days all in a row lately - might be the bushes squeaking or something.

Today I decided to see if I could see anything weird in the front left suspension area, and this is what I saw:

hailsuspension012fg7.th.jpg

Is this dangerous?

Should this have happened with just normal driving on the streets after 2 weeks?

What could have caused this?

Is this going to throw out my settings?

Sorry for the wall of questions :cheers:

I can post up the suspension tuning settings if that is any help too.

Much appreciated guys!

Thanks,

Adam

who installed it for you?

either didnt do the nut up or didnt put the nut on at all.

bolt comes out, you crash and burn...aarrrgggghhhhh...

take this pic to whoever installed the suspension and cut sick at them..

Not happy Jan, reminds me when I had some work done on my car. 1 week later felt like I had a flat tyre, turns out they stripped the studs on my left rear. Damn wheel nearly fell off at 80kph. As the other guy said, take it back and show them. I'd hit them for a free wheel alignment to.

Edited by zed-031

Lucky man. Could have ended up badly. I remember when i had some knocking in my car from the wheel area. We jacked up the car and turned out that who ever last took the wheel off didn't do it up tight and i could just undo all the wheel nuts by finger. The whole thing was just slapping around. Fagged the rim too by being loose. I like to alway check the work done to my car after someone has been playing with it.

DON'T drive it, call the worhshop & let them know, i they're half decent the'll pay for the tow to them to fix it.

What he said.Dont drive a death trap.

I have installed those bushes myself once b4.If the retaining nut,that locks the bolt in place,is tight,then that shouldnt have happened.My guess is that they put the bolt in there but diddnt tighten the retaining nut,with lock washer,up enuf therefore it has just worked it's way loose.

Or maybee they forgot to put the lock washer on at all.Who knows.

Death trap.

Very,very dangerous stuff.

:P:D:D thats just not right.

P.S: Send them the pic as proof of bodgey!

As the guys have said, don't drive it. If they are not there today, then get them on the phone first thing Monday and explain the situation. PM me if you need any further help.

The usual process is to install the bushes but not tighten the nuts fully until after the wheel alignment. My guess (and it's only a guess) is that they have not done the final tighten after the wheel alignment.

:P Cheers :D

Thanks for the help guys :)

Took it back to the place that installed it and got it fixed up. Is it a possibility that there could be permanent damage? Looks like there was a critical lack of attention to detail...

Just glad I didn't crash and burn :P

  • 2 months later...
Out of interest can you name the company? we all know mistakes are made but it would be good to know

If this is somehow breaking forum rules please delete, but the place that installed it this amazing way was the recommended installer for Canberra listed in the group buy thread.

PM if you want me to name names...

im sure to look for that problem now to see if anything is wrong i also herd u have to look out for mechanics who rip ur after market stuff from ur car if u dont know the guy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Give it 40psi and send it to the moon
    • I suspect 550s are on the large side for happy operation with a stock/Nistune RB20 ECU. The Hitachi ECU doesn't love short pulse width operation, and the RB20 doesn't need much fuel at idle. Big injectors can be unpleasant. This could be contributing.
    • Yeah, I still don't know why the idle speed control can't catch the falling RPMs. In the Consult logs I see the AAC duty cycle rising, but suddenly it goes lean and the engine stalls. Anyways, the relevance here is the DW 550cc injectors are probably the same. So if OP has similar issues I would be tempted to finger those injectors as problematic for whatever reason vs the ECU failing for some reason.
    • Yeah, sort of blurring two different things together, aren't we? I just meant O2 feedback closed loop. I used to have a 0-1V LCD meter on my dash, wired directly to the O2 sensor signal. So you could easily see what it was doing. Normal running it would flick back and forth nicely. Slow down to an idle and it would keep flicking, as the ECU tried to servo to maintain stoich, but it would slow down as each swing happened until it would stay at one end of the scale. As I said above, the sensor heater is not enough to keep it hot enough when there is also little heat in the exhaust flow. Give it a blip and it would start swinging again, then peter out again. Meanwhile, idle speed control would run just fine, because unrelated.
    • It's not even O2 feedback, it's just simply when the ECU sees the closed TPS signal for whatever reason the idle will start steadily dropping until the engine dies. With the TPS adjusted to not trigger closed TPS it will idle at some ridiculously high RPM and something like 6 degrees of timing. In the absence of getting eyes on it personally and a lot of quality time doing diagnostics I couldn't tell you what the real problem was but it was interesting nonetheless
×
×
  • Create New...