Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm looking to privately purchase a $15,000 car. I've never bought a car before, so I'm trying to avoid any unexpected surprises by asking lots of seemingly obvious questions - like the following:

So far, I've taken the following up-front costs into account:

  • Car - $15,000.
  • Registration - $154/year.
  • Insurance (third party) - $600/year.
  • Stamp Duty - $540.
  • Alarm - $1,000.

Is there anything else I might be missing?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15358-private-sales/
Share on other sites

I know in Vic you need a Road worthy Certificate (mine cost $70) and to pay transfer fees ($600 including stamp duty), then there is repairs to make the car road worthy etc ($250). If the car is unregistered then you have to pay get an unregistered car permit to drive it around from home to workshop. Apart from that I can't think of anything else...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15358-private-sales/#findComment-313772
Share on other sites

ok - i dont think theres that much point spending 1k on alarm for a 15k car... a cheaper unit for around 500 should do you fine.

I wouldnt bother with mechanical checks by the like of nrma/racv etc... take it to your mechanic and have it properly checked over.

otherwise it looks as if your on the money... also, dont forget if your getting a loan, they sometimes charge u a few hundred bucks to sign up!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15358-private-sales/#findComment-313801
Share on other sites

bloody adelaide.. don't even need a RWC cert to transfer the rego.. and my flatmate wonders why there are not hardly any $500 cars driving around in melb :O

If u speak to the buyer nicely they can write down the value they sell it to you (within reason) on the sheet to save on a certain tax... although of course that would be illegal...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15358-private-sales/#findComment-313827
Share on other sites

I'll offer him $1,000 for the car and $14,000 for the stereo. :)

dAVE: Would a standard mechanic do a proper job with a Japanese performance car? It's only an extra $100.00 to have a specialist look at it. You think I'd be better off saving my money?

Also, I'd rather over-protect than under-protect my car. Regardless of its value, I can't afford to have it stolen. The one I'm looking to buy already has an alarm, but I am planning to install a Boomerang (or Boomerang clone)... I want pretty much everything but satellite tracking - including remote ignition ( :uh-huh: ). I'm also going to buy a club-lock. Aaand I'm going to have an army of kill switches put in. Then I'll still be careful where I park it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15358-private-sales/#findComment-313996
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...