Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i just replaced my front and rear rotors and i was thinking of bleeding my brakes but now my brakes pedal has gone all the way to the floor.

i went to the Passenger rear side to start the bleeding process and no brake fluid came out.

so what do i do?

do i have to start bleeding from somewhere else?

this is how i did it

i removed the rotors and calipers (to paint) from the driver side first, then the passenger side, then the driver rear, then the passenger rear.

i also realised that my driver side brake line (the line from the caliper) is leaking and i will need to get this replaced.

Edited by theevilworld
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153582-brake-bleeding/
Share on other sites

to make brake bleeding easier and to do it by yourself.

unscrew the bleeder nipples and put thread tape on the threads.

then with a drink bottle run a hose into it. then simply pump the brake pedal. this way no air is sucked in threw the threads.

very easy and you can do it all by your self.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153582-brake-bleeding/#findComment-2858137
Share on other sites

Start from the passenger rear as you did then go to driver rear, passenger front then driver front (basically from furthest from the master cylinder to the closest).

If only air comes out while you are bleeding then just keep pumping. Contrary to the above a simple hose is no good, buy a one man bleeder hose from repco or supercheap (cost maybe 5-10 bucks). Unless skylines have a check valve built into the caliper (unlikely) you can draw air back in through the hose when you release the pedal if you don't use a bleeder hose. You need to close off the nipple before you lift the pedal, the one way valve does the same thing. Thread tape isn't a bad idea though, you shouldn't get air in through the threads but it's better to be safe than sorry I guess.

Ideally when bleeding brakes you should use a different coloured fluid so you know when you've flushed them completely but if your fluid is old it will probably be darker than the new stuff so you should still be able to tell.

Take the top off the reservoir, hook the hose up with the other end in a bottle and undo the bleeder nipple. Pump the brakes until the reservoir is NEARLY empty (not fully, never let it empty below the fluid pickup) then fill about 1/4 with the new fluid. Pump the brakes another few times until the reservoir is nearly empty again then fill it about 3/4.

Now get another bottle and swap them over on the hose (still on the same caliper). Give the brakes a couple more pumps and check the colour of the fluid to be sure the new fluid is coming out. If it's not just keep pumping until it does. If new fluid is coming out, switch to the next caliper and top the reservoir up if needed. Hook the hose up, open the nipple, pump until new fluid comes out then close it up and repeat for the other two.

Hope that helps.

Edited by Astaroth
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153582-brake-bleeding/#findComment-2858148
Share on other sites

you still gotta close off the nipple. it still sucks in air threw the threads.

Right - so you have to close of the nipple however you're suggesting using an open hose?

the whole idea is to keep the end of the hose imursed in fluid.

If you'd actually read his post like a good little boy you'd see that when he started bleeding the brakes no fluid came out, only air.

By putting an open hose into a bottle with fluid and pumping you will suck old fluid back in rather than air. And making sure the hose is immersed in fluid is kinda difficult when you're on the other side of the car. A bleeder hose is maybe five bucks and makes sure the job is done properly - if you want to cut corners with your brakes then be my guest but seeing as though they're the only thing slowing the car down I think I'll do things the right way.

Edited by Astaroth
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153582-brake-bleeding/#findComment-2859764
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey. Very valuable information about pitwork, I will pay attention when buying any consumable parts 🙏 As for the carpets - I got a handful of information from nengun, from which it appears that indeed the carpets for the driver's side are OEM. They are not able to show me any pictures due to the long chain of different sales entities but after I place the order, as soon as the goods arrive at the nengun warehouse from which they will send the shipment to me they can send me photos and if my purchase differs from OEM I can immediately return it / cancel the purchase. I think I will give it a try 😉. Of course i'll let you know what's what as soon as i get them P.s. I know the topic is not relevant to the thread, but both nengun and amayama have these SICK 😍 trunk room lamps available. Do you know anyone who ordered them? I need to have one in my car
    • I've managed to find this: Nissan_Stagea_AutechVersion260RS (1).pdf
    • I believe @Duncan has given it a crack at Mt Buller before (in actual race conditions)
    • All my Polish car culture insight comes from watching Nightride. So I half expect this to get 1UZ swapped eventually?! Are you going to drive it in winter? I'm always curious how ATTESA would hold up in the snow. There isn't that much opportunity to try it in Australia.  
    • My steering lock unit on my Infiniti G37 has failed. The car is a local 2012 Infiniti G37 (Q60 ) I need to replace the unit My local mechanic said i need to buy a complete steering wheel assembly. Does anybody no any mechanics in Gold Coast or Brisbane who can fix this issue or where i can buy just the Steering lock control unit. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...