Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi to all, im not sure who can really help me on this. i reciently put a RB20 into my VL (dont ask y) and i have power goin to the ECU and pumps, but the 20 just doesnt want to fire to life. there are a couple of things me and a mate think it could be the ignitor switch, or maybe there is a plug somewere i have missed (dont know were thoguh i seem to have them all sorted). any ideas anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153665-rb20-not-firing/
Share on other sites

Hi to all, im not sure who can really help me on this. i reciently put a RB20 into my VL (dont ask y) and i have power goin to the ECU and pumps, but the 20 just doesnt want to fire to life. there are a couple of things me and a mate think it could be the ignitor switch, or maybe there is a plug somewere i have missed (dont know were thoguh i seem to have them all sorted). any ideas anyone?

Who did the wiring? It is important to connect a number of main power feeds if the ol' girl is going to fire. Without going into too much detail you at least need the following:

1. Power to injectors, ECCS relay & Pin 58 (battery power - constant). This is supplied by the white wire with the black stripe in the engine bay plug of the RB20 loom.

2. Power to the Ign Coil relay when the key is in the "IGN" position. This is supplied by the white wire with the purple stripe in the engine bay plug of the RB20 loom.

3. Power to pin 45 when the key is in the "IGN" position. This is supplied by the black wire with the red stripe in the engine bay plug of the RB20 loom.

4. Power to pin 43 when the key is turned to the "start" position. This is one of the wires in the in-cabin plug.

5. Pin 18 is the trigger wire for the fuel pump relay.

This should be enough to get you started. I would also suggest you connect power to the air regulator and O2 sensor heater element. The air regulator operates independently of the ECU and bypasses air via the throttle body when the engine is cold. It closes when the engine gets some temperature into it.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153665-rb20-not-firing/#findComment-2862652
Share on other sites

where did the engine come from? a half cut etc?

If you have power to all of the above possiably check that the fuel in your fuel rail hasnt solidified. Ive seen this a few times on cars that have had imported motors dropped in...also check that the fuel lines are in the right way around too :action-smiley-069:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153665-rb20-not-firing/#findComment-2863371
Share on other sites

With out sounding to dodgy, im doin all of the wiring myself because where i live there is no auto sparkys around to do any thing, have to get the car off the island to do see one. engine came from a halfcut that apparntly ran b4 it was sent to me. looks all good though and there is oil all through it so it looks like it has been ran recient enoguh

Edited by EVL-180
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/153665-rb20-not-firing/#findComment-2865068
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno about that as a blanket statement. Pitwork is Nissan's "Nissan genuine" thing, and for stuff like timing belts, I have found them to be excellent. Of course, for things like oil filters, you always use proper trusted brands anyway, not whatever the OEM has taken to using.
    • Ahhhh... If you were putting 12V to the led in there, that's likely made it very unhappy. Chances are how you put power, was 12V across an LED that's meant to only have about 20mA through it at peak, and a forward voltage of about 1.8 to 2.4 volts. That circuit is likely only a 3V3 circuit, and will have a resistor in series with the led too. That's my guesstimate on that light, without having touched one.
    • Another vote for installing them and see how you go.  I mean, you already own them, why would you not fit them? 
    • I have had too many of those over the years, my cars have a toolkit or at minimum a cheapy multi tool thing because its too easy to be snookered by some stupid plastic clip that stops you checking the battery terminal isn't loose.
    • Basically, if there is a part# on the nissan catalogue, it is a genuine part. There is a thing called "new old stock" which is stuff made years ago but never sold (or landfilled), but it is super hit and miss what you can buy. Other than some expensive Nismo stuff there is nothing new being made that suits these cars. The only time to be a little careful is (mostly in the US I think, but maybe Japan too), Nissan started rebranding some cheap crap maintenance parts like oil filters as "Pitworks"; stay away from them, if you are buying cheap just buy whatever the local car parts shop carries The three part numbers have an explanation on Amayama: 0V005 is auto, base style 0V015 is manual 0V505 is auto, hectic momo branded ones, maximum F&F points there!
×
×
  • Create New...