Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HICAS light can be effected by different: steering wheel, suspension, wheels, etc... so its probably going to be on.

I'd be more worried about compresson being even.

Some people have their turbos last for ages without problems. Some people smoke for years without problems.

Alot of people however, DO have issues with GTR's. Such as cooling and turbo problems. I had both and it was a big issue, had to sell it.

Its not just as simple as looking at the plenum to see how much paint is on there as some people say... lol.

I'd just reckon you need to be prepared to spend alot if you buy a GTR under 20k. Who knows, it might last years without a cent spent...but you'd be foolish to not be prepared for alot of drama's.

Difference with a GTR is... engines are worth a furtune if you need to replace or rebuild and so are turbo's.

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

HICAS light can be effected by different: steering wheel, suspension, wheels, etc... so its probably going to be on.

I'd be more worried about compresson being even.

Some people have their turbos last for ages without problems. Some people smoke for years without problems.

Alot of people however, DO have issues with GTR's. Such as cooling and turbo problems. I had both and it was a big issue, had to sell it.

Its not just as simple as looking at the plenum to see how much paint is on there as some people say... lol.

I'd just reckon you need to be prepared to spend alot if you buy a GTR under 20k. Who knows, it might last years without a cent spent...but you'd be foolish to not be prepared for alot of drama's.

Difference with a GTR is... engines are worth a furtune if you need to replace or rebuild and so are turbo's.

it's the 4wd light that's on!!

So you haven't bought this car yet, but you have ready access to it to see whats wrong with it?

GTR 4WD LIGHT THREAD

For $17k it can't look that good under the bonnet, like psybic says the paint on the plenum is probably all cracked and peeling :P. Ask the current owner if you can take it for a compression test, its $xxx money well spent on a car thats more than likely ready for a rebuild.

do you mean difference between the base model and vspec model or the diff between a 92 and 94 vspec ?

differences to base model are

faster atessa pro 4wd computer

brembos

17in bbs mesh rims

harder suspension

sticker on the back

many people think the vspecs 32 will be collectable as only 3000 were made . there were quite a lot more 33 vspecs

i dont know the difference between vpsec's in different years if there is any , i dont think there is . I have read that the rb26 in the 94s has some changes that appear in the 33 rb26 but their minor and that would apply to all 94s

so there arnt any engine canges as in fixing weak points etc? I am looking at buying a white 32 94 model gtr vspec with brembos etc.

So you haven't bought this car yet, but you have ready access to it to see whats wrong with it?

GTR 4WD LIGHT THREAD

For $17k it can't look that good under the bonnet, like psybic says the paint on the plenum is probably all cracked and peeling :P. Ask the current owner if you can take it for a compression test, its $xxx money well spent on a car thats more than likely ready for a rebuild.

To be honest the engine looks really really good no paint missing on the plenum it's got crome rocker covers and apparentlly hks cams. i'll post up some pics, but stupid me forgot to take pics of the engine. the car was only driving in rear wheel drive though.

So you haven't bought this car yet, but you have ready access to it to see whats wrong with it?

GTR 4WD LIGHT THREAD

For $17k it can't look that good under the bonnet, like psybic says the paint on the plenum is probably all cracked and peeling :P. Ask the current owner if you can take it for a compression test, its $xxx money well spent on a car thats more than likely ready for a rebuild.

To be honest the engine looks really really good no paint missing on the plenum it's got crome rocker covers and apparentlly hks cams. i'll post up some pics, but stupid me forgot to take pics of the engine. the car was only driving in rear wheel drive though.

by the way does any one know any places in lansvale sydney that does compression and leak down test's and how much do they usually cost??

sorry about the quality they were taken from my phone.

Cheers

anthony

post-18265-1170229675.jpg

post-18265-1170229768.jpg

post-18265-1170229807.jpg

post-18265-1170229867.jpg

post-18265-1170230019.jpg

looks quite tidy

get an inspection from a known skyline focused workshop which would include a compression test

(uas and croydon are just 2 in syd , plenty more)

if it gets good comp figures and theres no rust or accident damage then might be solid bargain

so there arnt any engine canges as in fixing weak points etc? I am looking at buying a white 32 94 model gtr vspec with brembos etc.

late model 32 changes , but none vspec specific if thats what you mean?

Edited by arkon
So really any gtr from 92 upwards is fairly good depending on condition.

I'd say more in the August 1993 and onwards :sleep:, thats when they started the Vspecs anyway.

Mine is an August 1993 model but not a Vspec, although it had an N1 ECU so maybe it was just a trial or end of a run model.

Car looks good mate

engine bay looks cleaned up for sale, whats with the FPR and why was it changed.how come the cam cover is not polished, but over all a leak down test would make me sleep better at night if i was buying it..

The fuel pressure reg is in the car cause the car still has standard injectors

and the cam cover is cromed as well.

Cheers

anthony

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...