Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Fc

tmc_2

By tmc_2,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys i just purchased a power fc with hand controller.

The pfc has a tune that was done by hitman on a r33 with the same mods as mine.

I tested it and the max knock i could get floggin it at 10pm tonight was 25. It only got 25 onlce, mostly would be arounfd 14-18 knock.

Going by this ruff diagnosis will this tune be fine for me to use for 5 weeks till i can afford a decent tune if i monitor knock?

I plan to wait till i buy a turbo then get the whole lot tuned.

Thanks in advance guys

Edited by tmc_2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If you just drive it sedately, there is no reason why it wont be ok.

If its not knocking then thats not too bad

I wouldnt go flogging it though. I would have it all checked with some AFR's aswell as Risking said.

Might only require a touch up, or maybe nothing at all and it'll cost you basically a couple power runs ($80)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875659
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info guys,

I was of the assumtion that if it had low knock and the car sounded and felt right it should be ok? If the Air/fuel was lean wouldnt that cause a knock reading?

What if i erased the tune and ran the base maps? would htat be any safer?

I might enquire about gettgin it checked tomorrow, jsut dont wanna spend money as trying to save for a turbo then get it tuned.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875674
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just drive it sedately... then it will be safe, just like the base map :laugh:

If you dont wanna spend the coin for a few weeks or whatever.

I would suspect it would only be a mild touch-up to the map anyhow.

There are other factors, but that doesnt matter for what we are talking about.

If you just put some self restraint on your right foot...

Thats all the safety you need, either that or put the stock ECU back into it and go back to how it was :sorcerer:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875679
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just drive it sedately... then it will be safe, just like the base map :laugh:

If you dont wanna spend the coin for a few weeks or whatever.

I would suspect it would only be a mild touch-up to the map anyhow.

There are other factors, but that doesnt matter for what we are talking about.

If you just put some self restraint on your right foot...

Thats all the safety you need, either that or put the stock ECU back into it and go back to how it was :sorcerer:

Thanks for helpnig me clear that up, i will se how i go gettign it checked for cheap :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875681
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

Id recommend you be putting the stock ECU back in. Unless you can keep off the right foot.

Lean AFR's have nothing to do with the knock readings unless you are pysically out of flow and its really leaning out big time.

My GTR was maxing out the injectors at 1 bar. Run 1.1 bar and it would detonate. Put in a set of 800's and countered for them with the Same ignition map and no more knocking.

If you drive it around leave the Tune in there that it currently has.

Just get a few power runs done and some light throttle cruising checks.

Edited by Risking
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875685
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The only shop tomorrow likley to take me charges 120p/h dyno time and their labour is $75p/h , not cheap. So i will quiz them about checking it.

Ideally i will be taking it some where else, but that some where else needs to be booked in advance, theire time is gold but well worth it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875689
Share on other sites
QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted

If your in Sydney, we are having a Dyno Day at J.E.M in Moorebank for $50 and will tell you AFR, Detonation, Max Power and the tuner will let you know if you need a tune... otherwise we have a G.B for $450 you get a FULL Road & Dyno tune with print out...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875728
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If your in Sydney, we are having a Dyno Day at J.E.M in Moorebank for $50 and will tell you AFR, Detonation, Max Power and the tuner will let you know if you need a tune... otherwise we have a G.B for $450 you get a FULL Road & Dyno tune with print out...

Cheers

Hi i am located in brisbane guys.

thanks any ways

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875736
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...