Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Fc

tmc_2

By tmc_2,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys i just purchased a power fc with hand controller.

The pfc has a tune that was done by hitman on a r33 with the same mods as mine.

I tested it and the max knock i could get floggin it at 10pm tonight was 25. It only got 25 onlce, mostly would be arounfd 14-18 knock.

Going by this ruff diagnosis will this tune be fine for me to use for 5 weeks till i can afford a decent tune if i monitor knock?

I plan to wait till i buy a turbo then get the whole lot tuned.

Thanks in advance guys

Edited by tmc_2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

If you just drive it sedately, there is no reason why it wont be ok.

If its not knocking then thats not too bad

I wouldnt go flogging it though. I would have it all checked with some AFR's aswell as Risking said.

Might only require a touch up, or maybe nothing at all and it'll cost you basically a couple power runs ($80)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875659
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the info guys,

I was of the assumtion that if it had low knock and the car sounded and felt right it should be ok? If the Air/fuel was lean wouldnt that cause a knock reading?

What if i erased the tune and ran the base maps? would htat be any safer?

I might enquire about gettgin it checked tomorrow, jsut dont wanna spend money as trying to save for a turbo then get it tuned.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875674
Share on other sites
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Just drive it sedately... then it will be safe, just like the base map :laugh:

If you dont wanna spend the coin for a few weeks or whatever.

I would suspect it would only be a mild touch-up to the map anyhow.

There are other factors, but that doesnt matter for what we are talking about.

If you just put some self restraint on your right foot...

Thats all the safety you need, either that or put the stock ECU back into it and go back to how it was :sorcerer:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875679
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Just drive it sedately... then it will be safe, just like the base map :laugh:

If you dont wanna spend the coin for a few weeks or whatever.

I would suspect it would only be a mild touch-up to the map anyhow.

There are other factors, but that doesnt matter for what we are talking about.

If you just put some self restraint on your right foot...

Thats all the safety you need, either that or put the stock ECU back into it and go back to how it was :sorcerer:

Thanks for helpnig me clear that up, i will se how i go gettign it checked for cheap :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875681
Share on other sites
Risking Grand Master

Risking

Posted
Posted (edited)

Id recommend you be putting the stock ECU back in. Unless you can keep off the right foot.

Lean AFR's have nothing to do with the knock readings unless you are pysically out of flow and its really leaning out big time.

My GTR was maxing out the injectors at 1 bar. Run 1.1 bar and it would detonate. Put in a set of 800's and countered for them with the Same ignition map and no more knocking.

If you drive it around leave the Tune in there that it currently has.

Just get a few power runs done and some light throttle cruising checks.

Edited by Risking
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875685
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The only shop tomorrow likley to take me charges 120p/h dyno time and their labour is $75p/h , not cheap. So i will quiz them about checking it.

Ideally i will be taking it some where else, but that some where else needs to be booked in advance, theire time is gold but well worth it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875689
Share on other sites
QRI05E Mentor

QRI05E

Posted
Posted

If your in Sydney, we are having a Dyno Day at J.E.M in Moorebank for $50 and will tell you AFR, Detonation, Max Power and the tuner will let you know if you need a tune... otherwise we have a G.B for $450 you get a FULL Road & Dyno tune with print out...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875728
Share on other sites
tmc_2 Rising Star

tmc_2

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If your in Sydney, we are having a Dyno Day at J.E.M in Moorebank for $50 and will tell you AFR, Detonation, Max Power and the tuner will let you know if you need a tune... otherwise we have a G.B for $450 you get a FULL Road & Dyno tune with print out...

Cheers

Hi i am located in brisbane guys.

thanks any ways

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154598-power-fc/#findComment-2875736
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...