Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey please help!. yeah I'm as new as a newbie gets, and yeah there's a few little things which I have questions about regarding my r33.

What does the SLIP and LSD-A mean? They are both ON! ... wats wrong with the car and how much to get it fix?

And my front lights flicker a little when i turn on the car, any way of fixing that. can it be done at home? How much to get it done?

i was installing new head unit and undid a few wires, there was a little smoke and my clock stopped working. DO i need a new one, or can i just reconnect the wires, I'm just not sure what wires to reconnect. but the system works fine. How much to get this fix?

And i have to change the seals because water is getting into my boot and when there's heavy rain, it gets little damp under the floor mats. How much do get all seals redone?

And yeah lastly, the AUTO button for the air conditioner doesnt work, i have to press the button below it to turn on the aircon to turn on, anyway of getting this fix. and cost of this?

Thanks for ur help.

BryanLee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15476-please-help-how-do-i-fix-these/
Share on other sites

What does the SLIP and LSD-A mean? They are both ON! ... wats wrong with the car and how much to get it fix?

On permentantly? Thats a problem, however, if they just 'flicker' thats means they are doing their job. By the way, it might be worth your while doing a search on both those features, if I am not mistaken, you have scored some fairly rare options on your car.

And my front lights flicker a little when i turn on the car, any way of fixing that. can it be done at home? How much to get it done?

When you turn the engine over, the headlights will 'dim' because of the current being drawn from the battery in order to start the motor. Its the same reason that the stereo will 'turn off' when you start the motor.

i was installing new head unit and undid a few wires, there was a little smoke and my clock stopped working. DO i need a new one, or can i just reconnect the wires, I'm just not sure what wires to reconnect. but the system works fine. How much to get this fix?

Smoke is never a good sign... Start by checking the fuses, then the integrety the wiring in the vicinity of the clock (or where the smoke came from). At the risk of stating the obvious, the clock will not work until you re-wire it.

And i have to change the seals because water is getting into my boot and when there's heavy rain, it gets little damp under the floor mats. How much do get all seals redone?

Do a search for a few recent threads concerning water leaks in the boot - odds on it is not the rubber seals but rather the panel join seal. Is there water in the rear of the car as well, under the rear floor mats?

And yeah lastly, the AUTO button for the air conditioner doesnt work, i have to press the button below it to turn on the aircon to turn on, anyway of getting this fix. and cost of this?

The 'auto' button is for the climate control function, it is possible to switch the A/C function on and off independantly of the climate control. However, it is possible to run a diagnostic on this system in the car. Do a search for A/C daignostic mode.

Have fun!

:)

I was under the impression that the SLIP and LSD-A are options.

By flicking the car into SLIP, the gearing is adjusted to make you drive calmer so you don't break traction...(I thought it was also called SNOW)

LSD-A is letting the wheels detect slippage and adjust accordingly...

I'll confirm this for you tonight...

As for flickering lights when you start the car...

you should never try to start the car with any headlights, A/C, radio, etc on...I even turn off the interior light if it happens to be on...

so basically reducing the load on your battery so that the starter can get the best charge possible to turn your engine...

even if you stall it on the road...quickly shut off all your equipment (you might want to leave parkers on if there are cars coming behind you)...start the car and then power everything back up...

As for the clock, if you plug it back in (assuming you still have the original white plug) it should work...otherwise use a multimeter and see if your power and negative are ok...

You should check all your fuses when you pop something - just to be safe...

The water might be getting into your boot because you don't have any grommets in your floors...check for the round black rubbery plugs...you shouldn't have any open holes in your floors...

The AUTO function isn't used that much so its not as bad as not having A/C...if it doesn't look obvious, it might be worth getting it replaced instead of fixed...or at least pricing a 2nd hand one so you know how much the effort is worth...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...