Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

boss wants Huddy and I to five stud works skid ceffy

using 5 stud gear off a stagea front and rear cross member we have a work

just read that you can't use r33 stuff to five stud a s13

seeing as there around the same era thought I'd ask here before we get stuck into it

stagea setup we have seems to have the same brake setup as the ceffy has atm

I'd much prefer just to stick the motor in (T04r mmmmmmmmmmmmm) but he wants five stud

so Ive gotta be a good little worker lol

Edited by 1400r
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/154891-rwd-stagea-5-stud-on-to-ceffy/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

im keen to help

done it 3 times over on 2 cefs

whats he got lined up for the front?

i would recommend using (as we have discussed 1000 times in the past) r32/z32 rear hubs... slides straight into the stub axles on the cef and retains the drum setup (wally has em for 50 bucks each... or im sure being kansai automotive you surely have a pair (i have 1 z32 and 1 r32 one so theyre identical))

and then use r32/r33 rotors and whatever calipers you want aslong (32 type m/r33 gtst... same shit twin pot rears which will bolt to factory mounting points on cef stub axles)

all youll need to do is cut or remove the brake dust cover

for the fronts... thats another story

i have thurs/friday/saturday/sunday off so...

gtr is fine... too much shit with this whole 5 stud conversion thing is interchangeable

its nissan

to be honest i havent played with stagea... if it runs same balljoints as s14 you can use it by getting r33 balljoints pressed into the lower control arms and stub axles (now dont go asking why cant i use r33 then if i need r33 balljoints... think about double wishbone strut mounting points compared to normal suspension in silvia/cefiro)

you can use r32 front hubs also into the factory cefiro stub axles im 99.9% sure which makes it easy like the rear

go find 4 r32 hubs... slot em into your stub axles and get some 5 stud rotors n brakes (im assuming terry will go r33 gtst all round) and whack it on... bobs your uncle easy 5 stud

btw ryan i finally have driven my car with the 5 stud i got off you guys... front wheel bearings are shot... hope terry can give me a hand!

"btw ryan i finally have driven my car with the 5 stud i got off you guys... front wheel bearings are shot... hope terry can give me a hand!"

your joking right

you mean you didnt put new wheel bearings in when you swapped them over...?

cheap fix would be to put your old ceffy wheel bearings in assuming they'd fit

that help

dont think theyd fit s14 hubs?

nissan want 310 a bearing

cbc bearings want 305.60 a bearing!

ive got wed/thurs/fri off so ill come past n show you my BEARINGS and the vibrations which they are emitting throughout my car which is kinda turning me on...

and once again the 5 stud discussion lol

Well sounds like most of you guys are mechanics or have access to workshops with a press so you can mess with the S14/R33 ball joints.

But for the non technically minded (me) and the people that dont have access to a workshop (me) Try these little puppies for $550 from Just Jap, including front wheel bearings.

http://www.justjap.com/forumhubspecial.htm

All the information you could want is here

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/S13-and...50-t107311.html

Just dont do what I did and buy R34 Calipers as they use bigger bolts. (I made them fit though :thumbsup: ) More info on that here. (only if your bored)

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=139091

well im not sponsored so i dont automatically get that - must haggle >_<

sall good... markys wisdom confirms wheelbearings - he told me all the symptoms without driving the car and me telling him what is wrong... so yes its bearings

and a mate owes me alot of money - he cant pay up... so i collected some parts - including s14 front hubs with good condition wheelbearings :)

so that fixes that this weekend

see you dont realise that things are priced at that price for a reason - its not a garage sale... its a business - i suppose thats why you want 400 for those over fenders when you could more than likely source some for $200 set brand new...

so... if thats that sorted - you doin skids on saturday in your drift car?

i do realise this - but you cant haggle with businesses? some of us know what stuff actually is worth... thus we haggle

not saying kansai is expensive at all - just e-war with huddy

no my fully sick drift car is receiving maintainence over this week... need to adjust preload and height on coilovers, install kazama castor rods, exhaust is getting fixed on saturday, need to change front hubs due to screwed wheelbearings and fix some random kreeks and clunks

oh and if i can be f**ked swap my rear calipers over so theyre on the right sides :laugh:

Edited by Hella Flush

300+ a bearing? I find that very hard to believe? you sure they are quoting for a complete hub? I think I got 4 bearings for my silvia for about 60 bucks each? Had to press them into the hubs myself though.

yeah i actually went into nissan

and theyre like oh whoops we meant full hub assembly with wheelstuds etc... and they wont seperate the bearing from the kit

all good though mate owes me money so as part of the money oweing im getting his good condish s14 hubs

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...