Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok guys and girls i just need some help, i am currently half way buying a skyline off a private seller she says she has debts on the car....and of course i want to buy the car but is there a way on checking how much the car is owing? like online, telephone kinda thing? cause yeah hehe just wanna make sure im not stepping in a hole :P

Cheers

Chi

find out what finance company has title over the car , ring them get them to send you a final pay out figure , pay out the insurance company , they assign the title to you , pay the remainder to the current owner

or

ask the owner to pay it out and get a letter stating the car is freehold and pay the owner the total amount

Edited by arkon
hmmm so there isn't a site that i can go to and it'd tell me all the info i want aye :P?

mmm

alright

ill see wha ti can do

cheers

CHi

just get the engine/VIN number and registration and call REVS

http://www.revs.nsw.gov.au/buyguide/private.htm

they will let you know there is money owing etc and you basically have to write two checks and proceed as arkon stated. make sure the car is under your name before handing any cheques over i.e perform transfer of car/money in a bank where eventually everybodys got peace of mind and nobody can get screwed. Oh and call revs back and make sure its out of their list. good luck

BTW give us details of the car u r speaking of, maybe forum ppl know it

Edited by kidd

I got burnt by this once.... DEFINITELY ring REVS... and as the others said you write out a cheque to her finance company and the rest to her.

Even if the amount of the car is LESS than the amount she owes, the finance company will still release the encumberance on the car if the cheque is written out to them.

REVS will advise you on how to proceed anyway so take their advice.

Although - I wouldn't suggest doing Arkon's 2nd suggestion, as I did this and the guy nicked off to the UK and my car was repossesed because he didnt pay out the loan. But it was the letter that enabled me to charge him with fraud and get my car back. BUT you don't want to go down this path... Trust me... it was messy.

yeah its the white one on antilag for 10k im just buyinig this for my brother for his L plates and yeah hehe don't wanan like get scammed or nothing mmm so ring revs and they'll tell me what to do ? i got her Vin/Rego Number but no engine number sooo can i still perform this check cheers

Cheers

Chi

Ring REVS and find out? 1300 304 024

The Western Australian REVS site is https://bizline.docep.wa.gov.au/revs/

Go to this link and you can do your own search

https://bizline.docep.wa.gov.au/revs/public...ch.cfm?search=1

Although the online search just tells you it is encumbered. You still need to ring to find out the other details.

You need rego, VIN, Engine number.

Anyone else need spoon feeding?

You have the information you need. Thread Closed.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
×
×
  • Create New...