Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have this kit for sale as sold the car and no need now.

consists of

R34 front calipers

front DBA 4000 slotted rotors 310mm less then 10000km on them

rear R32 gtr calipers with standard rotors 297mm

front and rear has near new bendix ulimate pads.

front and rear 5 stud hubs.

rear hubs are off a R33 gtst and front are off a stagea

everything fits straight up only need to get some hard brake lines made up from the standard rubber hoses to caliper.

$1500 firm. the DBA rotors where $600 alone so u are getting a good deal.

email me at [email protected]

thanks derek

post-20159-1170919944.jpgpost-20159-1170919993.jpgpost-20159-1170920048.jpg

post-20159-1170920114.jpgpost-20159-1170920184.jpgpost-20159-1170920273.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/155485-5-stud-and-big-brake-kit-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
is everything included....like caliper mounts etc etc.....also the picture with the arms on it?? is that for rear or front?

u dont need caliper mounts as the calipers suit the discs. and the arm one is for the front.

everything is included that will all fit right on the car.

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...