Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

put some r33 gtst or r32 gtr calipers and rotors on it, its definately needed if u do any spirited driving as the stock brakes are horrible and with automatic u cant use the gears to slow u down either :P

Brad

Any indication of how much this would cost to do?

Cheers, Al

here in japan i can get the calipers for around 140 for hte front

and rotors for around 300 new

Dude, don't forget that in Japan you probably have an abundance of places to get the parts from, with a lot more choice than us here in Australia, and I'm guessing you're quoting US Dollars, not Australian Dollars, so the prices are somewhat irrelevant to us...

Oh, and Kylie, I thought the front pads were DB1250's? Might have to take them down for cross-referencing when the time comes to change mine... Like Leetom said, if you can't take one off and take it with you when you go to buy some, take a piece of paper and trace around one of the pads and take that to the parts shop to check against.

Hey Al im unsure on costs sorry, i know the 32 gtr and 33 gtst calipers (both the same) are fairly cheap, around $400 for a front pair as a rough estimate and slotted 297mm rotors from DBA would be around $400 for the pair as well. i bought the 34 brembos and 330mm rotors so i dont know about the other calipers/rotors except that they definately bolt on :P

good luck and catch u guys on the cruise tommorow :)

I did mine recently and found that I had to crack the bleed plug to get the piston to move back so I could fit the new pads.

The other cars I have changed pads on did not need this, the fluid just back flowed into the reservior.

Other than that, it was an easy job, saved me about NZ$200. At my last service, they said that they needed doing, and they would do it for NZ$140 + skimming. My front discs did not need skimming so I did it myself.

Dude, don't forget that in Japan you probably have an abundance of places to get the parts from, with a lot more choice than us here in Australia, and I'm guessing you're quoting US Dollars, not Australian Dollars, so the prices are somewhat irrelevant to us...

im actually trying to see if i can mail stuff to you guys so i can pass on the japan price deals!

Hey Kylie

whenever you are changing pads and compressing the brake pistons in, just remember to get someone to watch the fluid level in the resevoir, as if it is full up and you do both without looking it can overflow. The level will rise as the calipers are pushed in. Brake fluid is not good for your engine bay!

Also you can use the tiptronic (to change down) in the S2 to slow the car, or in an S1 change down, into 2. It does help a bit.

So, does anyone have a complete set of Stagea calipers that they want to get rid of? I am looking for the 2 piston fronts and the rears that take the DB1144 pads (though will consider others). I am in Canberra, if that makes a difference.

Cheers,

Matt

Edited by Matty T
I did mine recently and found that I had to crack the bleed plug to get the piston to move back so I could fit the new pads.

The other cars I have changed pads on did not need this, the fluid just back flowed into the reservior.

Not sure what you got, nor have I changed my pads before on my S2 Staj. But maybe the ABS has something to do with the above problems.??

I forgot to take pictures

I'm sorry, but if you want to remain a bonafide member of this forum you will have to go back and take pictures...and we dont care if it is raining...or snowing...pics or ban!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
    • Hi @Chupapy i had several leaks from coolant pipes being corroded, i also had one leak on back of the head onto transmission. For me that leak was from the turbo water line. Follow the line to the back of the head The hose and metal pipe had perished these are the best pics I took of it at the time
×
×
  • Create New...