Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

look man i got my red P's 6 months ago, and i got an exemption to dirve my skyline, and that skyline only. i am not entitiled to drive any other turbo car, so even if i sell my current skyline and buy another i wnt be allowed to drive the new 1. so there are small exceptions that may allow u to drive a turbo car. 1-owning the car b4 the rule came out 2-needed for work purposes 3-any other valid reason u may present to them.

but to drive a turbo skyline on ur P's is like handing the police ur license. the fine on the first offence is around $350 and 7 POINTS. thats first ofence. so realisticaly speaking either apply for an exemption (if u think you have a valid reason). otherwise simply dnt take the risk, unless u feel like losing ur license for 3months everytime u get pulled over randomly(which is pretty often in a skyline lol)

Edited by vexed

Once apon a time (a year ago) i owned a s2 r33 silver aged 17 had been pulled over up to 3 times in a night. I got defected, fined the lot.

Driving on a main road in kirrawee, booted it up to the speed limit along side a friend, cop called it racing. took me to court lost my license for 1 year.. now i cant drive a turbo car anymore due to new restrictions.

They impounded my r33 and even put me in the leader. Costed me 4000$ in the end in fees. I couldnt believe how wrongly accussed i was. amazing what police can do if they want to. (no radars, 1 cop 1 story. by bye car / license.)

Depending on where you live i dont think its possible to not get pulled over in 3 years in one of these cars.

ITS NOT A GOOD FEELING having a nice r33 sitting in ya back yard under cover only because there is some size 8 print on the back of your damn license.

I handed in my exemption form as i owned the car before july 2005 and had it registered in my name at the time of the offence, which are both grounds for exemption.

Wish me luck

U noe racing doesnt have to mean speeding....

i could "race" every car off the lights just to see who can get to the speed limit fastest.

not trying to put u down or anything, just saying that its not like the cop didnt have legitimate grounds to throw the book at you.

Ive lost my licence too for a while (driving on expired licence) and that wasnt fun, but hey you learn from your mistakes and id say im alot more aware of breaking the rules now then i would have been if i didnt lose it.

U noe racing doesnt have to mean speeding....

i could "race" every car off the lights just to see who can get to the speed limit fastest.

not trying to put u down or anything, just saying that its not like the cop didnt have legitimate grounds to throw the book at you.

Ive lost my licence too for a while (driving on expired licence) and that wasnt fun, but hey you learn from your mistakes and id say im alot more aware of breaking the rules now then i would have been if i didnt lose it.

hey mate yeh i know.. but how would you feel in my situation... i could have gotten off if i didnt have a bad record already. shit happens.

but now i drive like a grandma and it feels good not gettin pulled over :-)

I've had my licence for 11 months.

(Red P's)

Been pulled over 10 times. Never fined. Never been done for speeding/burnouts etc.

Always a "random" breath test. I've had to lift my bonnet 8 times.

Never been asked to rev the car, or anything like that. The cops physically look for a front mount, turbo, blow off valve etc.

I have been asked a few times if my oil breather is a blow off valve, and once if my pod filter (which is enclosed) is a blow off "thingy".

Cops have gotta do a job, and when they see that red P plate they will definately do it.

if its a random breath test ask them why they are testing the car? it doesn't drink

i swear they are so hell bent on making money that you could probably be passed out cold from the booze and they'll still say you are fine, life up your bonnet please.

i was thinking the same thing.

but i heard that ur car gets impounded n shit if ur caught wif a prohibited vehicle.

resorted myself to an NA 34 and will upgrade to turbo once im off Ps.

still pull in d chickies tho :happy:

haha .. shoulda see this guy cruzn in his pimp mobile so hot haha

:(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...