Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I got defected for the first time on new years day

bloody coppa !!!!

he said that my exhaust was a defect because there was no muffler and it wasnt original :S :S

he didnt comment on the noise :S

its a kakimoto 3.5" straight through to the cat and then cannon type on the end.

But this cop said its a defect because there is no muffler ????? :S :S :S :S

Does anyone know if this is true and if it really is a defect ??????

To get it cleared i went to the muffler man in penrith and he advised to take of the cannon type on the end and insert a straight through muffler to a 2.5" tip...

Now would this decrease performance or not change a thing since its 3.5" pipe from the front ????????

I know it should decrease noise, but i dont really wanna go unwelding a kakimoto exhaust to insert a muffler and throw on a 2.5" tip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/
Share on other sites

what i did was ...unbolt it from the very last join...just behind the resonator...and get a new pipe made up with a stock looking rear muffler with 3inch flow thru..and keep the canon when going to track etc. prob doesn't do any good for the aesthetics but better than being pulled over by cops all the time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/#findComment-2911652
Share on other sites

how is it illegal for having a cannon? thats the biggest BS . fair enough he defect you for noise but not having a stock looking muffler ? what a joke .... id contest against that or something . every 3rd car these days has a cannon - weather itd be a performance car or a rice burner ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/#findComment-2911674
Share on other sites

i think maybe the copper meant, you MUST have a mid muffler, since you stated it was just straight through to a cannon from the cat? i've never heard of anyone getting defected for not having the standard rear muffler unless it was obviously over the dB limit

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/#findComment-2911739
Share on other sites

yehh i was thinking that

but the look of this exhaust is crazzyyyyy

post-26606-1171619191.jpg

but would having no muffler be a defect ????

never heard of that before :S

mainly only noise

LOL thats my exhaust well looks like it, did u want it cause its up for sale soon :wave:, i went threw regency with that exhuast it was fine!

post-26467-1171622520.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/#findComment-2911764
Share on other sites

the copper obviously dont know what hes talkin about. I can see in that pic, its got a CAt + muffler.

i agree, i think the cop doesnt know what he is talking about or maybe he didnt have one of those decibel meters on him at the time so he thought to just defect and make something up. i figure if he had the decibel meter he would have done you for excessive noise level.

these kakimoto cannon type exhausts are pretty loud. ive got one on my car, they look crazy and i love the sound. though cops dont like them one bit!

imo, fill the cannon up with steel wool to quieten down the noise and then contest the defect. after u get off defect, remove the steel wool and enjoy the wicked exhaust note again!

goodluck with clearing the defect mate!

cheers

Edited by R33LIN
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/#findComment-2912044
Share on other sites

heyy guysss

i had a customer exhaust installed.

took off the canon on the end and just added a straight through muffler and a smaller exhaust

had a reading done on it and rocks up at 89db with paper work from muffler man to support the test :D

so once the defect has passed ;)

on goes the kakimoto hehehehe

at least this way if i get done again, straight swap heheh

thanks for all the info guyss

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/156678-exhaust-defect/#findComment-2912602
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lets say I wanted to buy this, specifically for this purpose. How do I actually perform the function. Can I still buy a Consult-1? Am I about to be burned by the fact my car is a 2000 model Series 2 R34 and thus will be some stupid other system? Do I just need this -> https://obd2australia.com.au/product/nissan-consult-14-pin-to-usb-ddl-diagnostic-interface-with-ftdi-ft232r-chip/ And with what software?
    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
×
×
  • Create New...