Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, has anyone upgraded their turbo and have the old water and oil lines lying around? I desperately need these tonight or first thing tomorrow morning ..... I assume the R34 lines are the same too. Not sure about R32s, but if anyone knows that would be great too. I am happy to try anything at this point!

Thanks in advance!

Andrew

yeah thanks heaps Darren for putting me onto Jason!!!

Thanks heaps Jason - they worked a treat! Put the standard turbo, dump and water/oil lines back in, in under 2 hours!

The car fired first time and didn't leak any oil. We had a small water leak due to a petrified/cracked original turbo water return hose (the nasty one that goes behind the engine) but other than that everything worked out awesomely. Thanks again!

If you need advice/help on custom oil/water lines PM Dangerman (Darren) and I am sure he will help you out. I hope your slide high-flow gets here soon!

David (brother-in-law) had someone rear-end his R33 and push him into another car Friday week ago and they have written it off.

So we spent all weekend pulling all his mods off and returning it to stock.

Since he had a Garrett 2530 the oil and water lines were not stock, so when I went to put the lines on the stock turbo I came up stumped (they hadn't kept the original lines when changing the turbo). So luckily Jason came to the rescue and sold me his stock lines.

I rang you today Matt, but it said your number is disconnected. I thought I saw your GTR in Norwood .... but didn't know you were back in town? But it had GTR wheels on it .... other than that was identical to yours!

Let me know how you go with the lines Jason, as I think I am going to get new ones made for the 2530 - the standard banjo bots and metal lines system seem a pretty crap system to me.

Good to hear it all came together in the end Andrew :domokun:

Sorry I didn't get back to you on Sun'. My humble apologies mate, I did ask Shaun on Sun' morning, but he forgot to check his spares pile - and I forgot to remind him. I owe you a beer!

Edited by whatsisname

no worries Matt, thanks for your help anyhow. I actually forgot to ring you/Shaun Sunday morning anyhow to say don't bother since I had sourced some from Jason. Ah well, it all worked out in the end, the car is now gone to the insurance mob to be auctioned (I might yet buy back the wreck for fun), and I have a 2530 64T sitting in my garage :)

no worries Matt, thanks for your help anyhow. I actually forgot to ring you/Shaun Sunday morning anyhow to say don't bother since I had sourced some from Jason. Ah well, it all worked out in the end, the car is now gone to the insurance mob to be auctioned (I might yet buy back the wreck for fun), and I have a 2530 64T sitting in my garage :)

So, I know that turbo isn't going on your car, but when IS it going on your car?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...