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New Splitfires Installed Still Probs,f$##%


DREW32
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HEY there SAU members and guests ,need to pick a few brains ,my gtst r32 started to missfire a few months back and its gotten progressively worse and worse didnt happen all the time but one day the car could barely run all of a sudden and was diagnosed by our NISSAN dealer ship that 1 or 2 coilpacks had shit themselves ,SO i bought a set of S/F and new plugs (just the cheap copper ones ) any way put it all in and away it went sounded good etc etc then out of nowhere as the car is idleing it starts to miss again only like 10 mins after the install, but it only misses at idle as far as i can tell,it gets worse when you apply the brake or put it into gear (auto) and wants to stall , have ceaned AFM throttle body etc etc checked lines everything i can think of so need a little advice on what i could check further to diagnose this problem, ALSO dyno tunes can my car be tuned by a dynotuner if it only has a stock ECU can they adjust anything to make it run better ? and what is the usual costs charged by one as i looked into it and was told it was going to cost over $200 just for them to hook it up to see what the car is doing and that didnt include a power run does this sound right or am i being sucked in? Help me out guys as i starting to loose my love for skylines with all these costs and still no fun :D

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RE dyno - you can only really adjust the base timing and check AFR's

Not sure who is stinging you $200, thats a bit rich. Should be $80-$100 for a power run and check it all

About the other stuff, more details of the car.

How much boost?

Whats the plug gap?

What part number is on the plugs?

Have you checked all the ignitor/coil pack connectors for corrosion?

Have you checked the loom for frayed wires?

Is the battery in good condition?

Whats the idle set to?

Whats the base timing set too?

Lots of detail that we need to get a better idea &/or things to check further

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RE dyno - you can only really adjust the base timing and check AFR's

Not sure who is stinging you $200, thats a bit rich. Should be $80-$100 for a power run and check it all

About the other stuff, more details of the car.

How much boost?

Whats the plug gap?

What part number is on the plugs?

Have you checked all the ignitor/coil pack connectors for corrosion?

Have you checked the loom for frayed wires?

Is the battery in good condition?

Whats the idle set to?

Whats the base timing set too?

Lots of detail that we need to get a better idea &/or things to check further

I thought $200 plus was high thats what i was told by HAG engineering in YAMBA nsw, boost is 10 -11 psi has a highrise s/s and t3 turbo doesnt have a boost controller so not boosted , plug gap is .7 ,part number 2330 BCPR6ES did the search, as i didnt want to replace my irdiums as they are $20 a pop, did check the connectors and they wernt corroded but a few were broken inside so i silconed them up to sit straight and tight which could be the prob but dont think so as the car used to run perfectly since i bought it , no frayed wires anywhere , battery is a bit shit didnt think that would have any impact on idleing, but car has always started fine and is alarmed sensored, idle has always sat right on 1000rpm without a beat , have no idea about the base timing could you enlighten R31 nismoid?

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do a search for my user name, and splitfires. Mine did it after i spent a shit load of money, it turned otu to be the ecu, simply instead of a boost cut, i got missfire.

Yeah i was reading your threads as you posted them and was thinking shit im going through that there goes 1k plus ,so you think my ECU might be f$@%# eh , im going to put my old plugs back in might be a waste of time but i can recheck everything as i do it and also look a bit closer at split pipes etc, how did you come to the conclusion that it was your ECU WogsRus ?

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I got a new remaped ecu with R%R removed, and hay presto no issues.

The ecu was fine, but for some reason, the mappign was such, that under R&R, it had so much retatrd on the timming, it would missfire.

I am also about to put through a grounding kit, as the R33 ground is S H I T E.

BUt so far so good, but saying that, it still does have a bit of a cough sometimes. LOL.

DAM TURBOS>

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Quick dyno run should be cheap - $30 to $80, for any diagnostics expect to pay full tote labour rates too.

Umm, check the plug that connects into the AFM, make sure it is plugged in real tight (clicks).

Perhaps spray contact cleaner on the afm plug internals ?

I had this problem recently and it was the plug to the afm that had come *slightly* loose. Replaced the sparkies, siliconed up the coil packs and was running as rough as guts. Cleaned up the Z32 afm (afm and plug) with brake cleaner, clicked it back in tight and properly, problem solved.

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