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Upgrade, yes or no?  

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the main factors are:

pressure plate clamping load

sprung or solid centre

type of plates (full face, puck style, buttons of friction material?)

type of friction material used (carbon, ceramic, high metal content, composite...)

agree 100%. talk to Jim B re your needs and he'll give you some options. i learned quite a lot talking to him about why pivot points etc in the clutch design are critical in making a good strong clutch not drive like a dog. i eventually decided on an option - he took my stock GTR pressure plate and gave me back a ''full monty'' with an organic plate. stock pedal pressure but quicker uptake and slightly less travel. still easily modulated though. so far held 267 rwkw on an RB26/30 and easy in traffic.

I went with the Nismo twin, also got the clutch line and pedal bracket. I don't think the bracket made a difference to the feel of the pedal, its just a stronger bracket, the line however has improved feel a lot.

ive just replaced my clutch slave cylinder with a nismo item (R32 GTR) and ive got OS twin plate and it has made it a lighter the pedal feel also replaced with nismo clutch line from the separation box to slave, dont know if that has a contributing factor in the feel of the pedal.

Was thinking about the nismo pedal bracket too but opted not too.

Topaz mite check out the Nismo slave clyinder, to reduce pedal pressure.

I was convinced that a JB was the go then got advice to talk to NPC in Archerfield Brisbane. http://www.npcperformance.com.au/cgi-bin/m...main=nicsclutch

At $814 it's well priced too.

Great clutch built from a nismo single plate organic but strengthened to handle the possible 360-380rwkw I intend to extract from my GTR33. I will do some track and some drag and it is too easy to drive.

Topaz mite check out the Nismo slave clyinder, to reduce pedal pressure.

I had a standard replacement installed not long ago because I thought mine was squealing but the squeal is still there so I am pretty sure now that its the brake booster. If i hold my foot in the right position the squeal is constant....

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
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