Jump to content
SAU Community

Fmic Install R33 Series 2 - Require Engine Bay Pic *urgent*

tical

By tical,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tical Apprentice

tical

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

have been searching for some time so im ging for gold if someone could help me out :)

I bought this cheapy bloody kit for ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FMIC-TURBO-INTERCOO...1QQcmdZViewItem

Just need a pic of a bay so i can see the pipe that runs past the alternator and meets with the last pipe to the manifold, where it runs through. Do i need to take the whole bottom plastic engine shield off or just cut a hole. Which side does it run up?

Sorry if i sound a bit sketchy, have already had half a case of woody blues. Any pics would be greatly appreciated! cheers boys.. and girls.

tical Apprentice

tical

Posted
  • Author
Posted

really what i need is anyone who has installed an fmic on 33 series2 with a cooler that has outlet and inlet directing to opposite sides. i think i will need to cut a hole under the water bottle somewhere so i can get the pipe through and come out above the alternator.. . anyone???

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

you are correct! if you were qld i could lend you the hole saw as well.

post-17300-1172298834.jpg

EDIT I only have a 86mm hole saw with no arbour to drive it, stupid me never checked that ones I had, do fit it.

tical Apprentice

tical

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you are correct! if you were qld i could lend you the hole saw as well.

post-17300-1172298834.jpg

dude seriously you are a legend. i have just cut a hole there and it all marries up but im glad you posted that anyway. Mods might like to tech faq this one...

cheers :D

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

You don't actually attatch it to the solenoid, you by-pass the solenoid altogether.

Pretty sure the top pipe on the solenoid travels to a metal T-piece connected to a feed that goes from the intercooler piping down into the depths of the engine bay...well into the turbo/actuator.

The boost controller you have takes the place of that that T-piece.

Then block off the pipe that you removed that goes to the solenoid, never to be used again.

The boost controller will then be doing the job of the solenoid.(controlling the pressure feed from the I/C pipe to the wastegate-actuator)

Start with it screwed in, undo a few turns, drive....too low? undo a few more turns and repeat.

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
forget that, anyone got a pic or link to a pic for a hookup of a two piece manual boost controller.

bottom piece goes to actuator, what does the top pipe go to?? any pics pleae guys... life savers!!!

Connect one end of the boost controller to the nipple on the intercooler piping and the other to the wastegate actuator (attached to the turbo)

If you have one of the cheaper IC kits then you might not have a nipple on the cooler piping (usually closest as possible to the throttle body)....if you dont then purchase a $2 nipple and tap it into the piping making sure its a nice fit. Temporarily you can connect that end to the BOV vacuum hose(the one at the top) to drive yourself over to repco or whatever.

PM me if you still have trouble

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
Start with it screwed in, undo a few turns, drive....too low? undo a few more turns and repeat.

ummmm...isnt it then other way around. Undo (anti-clockwise) decreases boost...not increases

sam5709 Grand Master

sam5709

Posted
Posted
Connect one end of the boost controller to the nipple on the intercooler piping and the other to the wastegate actuator (attached to the turbo)

If you have one of the cheaper IC kits then you might not have a nipple on the cooler piping (usually closest as possible to the throttle body)....if you dont then purchase a $2 nipple and tap it into the piping making sure its a nice fit. Temporarily you can connect that end to the BOV vacuum hose(the one at the top) to drive yourself over to repco or whatever.

PM me if you still have trouble

sorry to bring this question up but im installing a FMIC myself and it doesnt have the nipple, were do you buy these from and how do you tap into the piping, is there welding involved or sumthin?

cheers

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

Confusing thread as you started on 1 topic and then edited the title to another....anyways...

here's some pics from yours truly.

Don't take the hole i made as the exact spot though, measure it up yourself and be sure it's right 50 times before cutting.

Good luck.....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...110032&st=0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • joshuaho96
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
×
×
  • Create New...