Jump to content
SAU Community

Fmic Install R33 Series 2 - Require Engine Bay Pic *urgent*

tical

By tical,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tical Apprentice

tical

Posted
Posted

hey guys,

have been searching for some time so im ging for gold if someone could help me out :)

I bought this cheapy bloody kit for ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/FMIC-TURBO-INTERCOO...1QQcmdZViewItem

Just need a pic of a bay so i can see the pipe that runs past the alternator and meets with the last pipe to the manifold, where it runs through. Do i need to take the whole bottom plastic engine shield off or just cut a hole. Which side does it run up?

Sorry if i sound a bit sketchy, have already had half a case of woody blues. Any pics would be greatly appreciated! cheers boys.. and girls.

tical Apprentice

tical

Posted
  • Author
Posted

really what i need is anyone who has installed an fmic on 33 series2 with a cooler that has outlet and inlet directing to opposite sides. i think i will need to cut a hole under the water bottle somewhere so i can get the pipe through and come out above the alternator.. . anyone???

R33S2 Grand Master

R33S2

Posted
Posted

you are correct! if you were qld i could lend you the hole saw as well.

post-17300-1172298834.jpg

EDIT I only have a 86mm hole saw with no arbour to drive it, stupid me never checked that ones I had, do fit it.

tical Apprentice

tical

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you are correct! if you were qld i could lend you the hole saw as well.

post-17300-1172298834.jpg

dude seriously you are a legend. i have just cut a hole there and it all marries up but im glad you posted that anyway. Mods might like to tech faq this one...

cheers :D

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

You don't actually attatch it to the solenoid, you by-pass the solenoid altogether.

Pretty sure the top pipe on the solenoid travels to a metal T-piece connected to a feed that goes from the intercooler piping down into the depths of the engine bay...well into the turbo/actuator.

The boost controller you have takes the place of that that T-piece.

Then block off the pipe that you removed that goes to the solenoid, never to be used again.

The boost controller will then be doing the job of the solenoid.(controlling the pressure feed from the I/C pipe to the wastegate-actuator)

Start with it screwed in, undo a few turns, drive....too low? undo a few more turns and repeat.

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
forget that, anyone got a pic or link to a pic for a hookup of a two piece manual boost controller.

bottom piece goes to actuator, what does the top pipe go to?? any pics pleae guys... life savers!!!

Connect one end of the boost controller to the nipple on the intercooler piping and the other to the wastegate actuator (attached to the turbo)

If you have one of the cheaper IC kits then you might not have a nipple on the cooler piping (usually closest as possible to the throttle body)....if you dont then purchase a $2 nipple and tap it into the piping making sure its a nice fit. Temporarily you can connect that end to the BOV vacuum hose(the one at the top) to drive yourself over to repco or whatever.

PM me if you still have trouble

Kennedy Mentor

Kennedy

Posted
Posted
Start with it screwed in, undo a few turns, drive....too low? undo a few more turns and repeat.

ummmm...isnt it then other way around. Undo (anti-clockwise) decreases boost...not increases

sam5709 Grand Master

sam5709

Posted
Posted
Connect one end of the boost controller to the nipple on the intercooler piping and the other to the wastegate actuator (attached to the turbo)

If you have one of the cheaper IC kits then you might not have a nipple on the cooler piping (usually closest as possible to the throttle body)....if you dont then purchase a $2 nipple and tap it into the piping making sure its a nice fit. Temporarily you can connect that end to the BOV vacuum hose(the one at the top) to drive yourself over to repco or whatever.

PM me if you still have trouble

sorry to bring this question up but im installing a FMIC myself and it doesnt have the nipple, were do you buy these from and how do you tap into the piping, is there welding involved or sumthin?

cheers

Birnie Veteran

Birnie

Posted
Posted

Confusing thread as you started on 1 topic and then edited the title to another....anyways...

here's some pics from yours truly.

Don't take the hole i made as the exact spot though, measure it up yourself and be sure it's right 50 times before cutting.

Good luck.....

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...110032&st=0

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Yea pedal box and no abs
    • zoomzoom
      WGNC34 Rear springs

      By zoomzoom · Posted

      It doesn't look like there's a lot of options out there these days, and what's out there is performance oriented aftermarket stuff (with the GTR markup) I wonder if there are other cars with similar springs, after all its just a matter of length, diameter and stiffness. Alternatively, I did see coil spacers. Probably not the best option, but could be serviceable too.  
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Final thought for now. Obviously the reason I was in there was to check everything is OK cooling wise, pull out the radiator to flush it etc, but I have to say the factory has done a hell of a lot of thinking about air management in a way they never did back in the R chassis days. The Redsport/400rs have (from engine forward) 2 large shrouded fans - radiator (incl AT cooler) - AC condenser - Intercooler Heat Exchanger and Oil cooler. There are shrouds and foam around everything to keep it pretty well sealed, which is good in that they have it sorted from factory, and bad in that I can't make any meaningful improvements there. The second red sport pump water pump is mounted in front of the rad in the airflow, so I will see if there is somewhere else I can stash that (unlikely, it is tight in there). The horns which are also in the rad airflow will be moved somewhere else, and hey who needs 2 when 1 would work For track days, I can also remove the lights which would block some airflow. Factory has already taken the smart option of ducting all air that went through the oil cooler down and out of the engine bay. This pic is taken from below looking up, so air comes through the cooler at the top of the pic then hits the shroud and is directed down and out of the engine bay through the engine bay lower cover Which of course is good for oil temps, but doesn't help the rad as it diverts 10-20% of airflow away So, no big improvements to be made here, I'll flush the rad out and put it all back together.....    
    • soviet_merlin
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      It looks so incredibly busy in there! 😮 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Next..... That escalated quicker than an Elon and Donald break up! I'll post up a specific DIY for radiator removal on these, but all I'm saying is that if you get a workshop to change your radiator for any reason and they give you a $1000 bill for it, go and hug them and thank them for not charging all the hours it took.....what a bastard of a job. I'll make some adjustments as I put it all back for faster access in the future, but it was a nightmare.
×
×
  • Create New...