Jump to content
SAU Community

Plx-m300 Wideband Oxygen Sensor


Recommended Posts

.... alot of crap...

Thank you for trying to trash my sale. Now let me rebut by listing some facts.

The RRP of this product is $350USD

This sensor is used in OEM applications from manufacturers such as Porche, Audi, Nissan (350z runs two of these) VW, Subaru, and Volvo. As such, these sensors are proven to be reliable at turbo AFR's for over a 100,000kms. If u plan on running below 10AFR, u will foul and destroy any o2 sensor you purchase.

Now, final price for this is $380. Will be at your door the day after the money clears.

Edited by Weq
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 6 months later...
2 wideband outputs so could it be used on a gtr?

These are a great unit. Used one for over 2 years swapping between 2 cars. Good question about linking the AFR signals though... Does the GTR ECU tune the front 3 cylinders seperate from the rear 3 cylinders when running in closed loop?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Agreed with the rest. Also at least based on my own research, there are no readily available stock or close-to-stock RB20Neo maps that you could download and use as a base were you to buy a complete standalone ECU, and the regular 20DET maps don't really work well so you'd need to take it to a tuner if you have no experience. I installed an AEM V2 on my 20Neo+T and had lots of headaches until I got it to run and idle properly but I've yet to remap it fully. You have to start building up your timing and fuel maps entirely from the ground up; even the ones for a 25 didn't work at all.
    • Got some decent progress after work yesterday and also today. Got the ECU all wired and passenger side interior all back together. Kept the wiring up nice and high to avoid people standing on it. Got the surge tank relays rewired and tidied up the pump wiring and cut a hole to bring the cables through.  I found a spare USB cable I had lying around so I decided to cut it up and see if I could use it for my CAN 1 bus. Turned out one of the pins I needed was to the shield of the cable so i cut it up and desoldered it and resoldered to the correct pins.  Had the issue with the powersteering hose hitting the A/C compressor and fan shroud. I pulled the bracket off and modified it to remove the front mounting point which now clears it all. Will keep an eye on it to see if theres any signs of fouling once it's up and running.
    • That's some good input mate. Nice.
    • So today I went well outside my comfort zone (again) to replace my valve cover gasket.  I have had a big leak over the exhaust leading to a lot of smoke and smell every time I drove it. The leak was in the rear driver's corner.  The job wasn't hard as such, just a bit finicky and time consuming.  The old gasket was rock hard and broken right where the leak was.  The leaky corner had so much sitting oil in it.  The good news to my amateur eyes was no buildup or sludge under the cover. It all looked fairly nice in there.   I haven't started it yet. I ran out of light and body when putting the coils and injector loom back in. Probs only 30min left for the morning.  I was so nervous putting the cover back on, I must have lifted it 5 times to make sure the gasket was still seated properly. God it's going to be nice to be leak free and not make other traffic light queuers think my car is about to explode.
×
×
  • Create New...