Jump to content
SAU Community

Tarmac Rally Brake Pad Recommendation

PHaT MR30

By PHaT MR30,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

 Share

Recommended Posts

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
Posted

Just looking into options for what brake pads to run in our Targa car.

Its a bit of a pain as we've had to downgrade the front brakes from brembo's to R32 GTR's in order to clear the standard wheels (16x6.5 s15 rims). Still running the brembo's on the rear (2 piston).

I don't know much about brake pads but the names Pagid, Hawk, SBS are the few mentioned.

Im not really sure what heat range is required for Tarmac rally, but one would assume you would want good initial bite etc etc

Anyway ive looked at Ferodo DS3000 and they look ok, has anyone used them?

What about Project MU or Nismo pads?

Just looking around as might be able to get sponsor to supply a set, depending on recommendations and availability.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm using the Project MU NC pads in R32 calipers and they work a treat. 0-800 degree rating, so work well from cold, and so far no fade after 5 laps.

I'd highly recommend them.

with a heat range like that do they take a bit to get up to operating temp or what?

We'r running Hawk Blacks in our car, i've got the paper for them at home that has the heat ranges on it.

Adam mention Hawk Blacks, but i know nothing about them. and you know what he says to me?

Navigators job, you find out (common response now).

sav man Grand Master

sav man

Posted
Posted

Looking at the sheet i'm not sure if we have Blacks or HT10's

Blacks temp range is 100-900F

HT10's are 300-1300F

I'll find the box tomorrow and find what they are.

So is Adam just being lazy? He's done a fair bit of racing, so i thought he's know a good pad off the top of his head. Just get some bendex ultimates, you'll never get another job again :wave:

someonestolecc Grand Master

someonestolecc

Posted
Posted
I'm using the Project MU NC pads in R32 calipers and they work a treat. 0-800 degree rating, so work well from cold, and so far no fade after 5 laps.

I'd highly recommend them.

I think the NC are the street or "light trackwork" pad. I used to have them in my cef I believe they're rated up to 350degrees. Never had em fade significantly even under heavy usage (but not circuit abuse).

The 800 ones are titan's or HCs or something.

PHaT MR30 Grand Master

PHaT MR30

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Looking at the sheet i'm not sure if we have Blacks or HT10's

Blacks temp range is 100-900F

HT10's are 300-1300F

I'll find the box tomorrow and find what they are.

So is Adam just being lazy? He's done a fair bit of racing, so i thought he's know a good pad off the top of his head. Just get some bendex ultimates, you'll never get another job again :laugh:

Yeh pretty much, maybe i should just get a set of powermax or something :)

I reckon Blacks would be more likely.

I keep looking at these Ferodo DS3000's though.... someone must have used them!

phunky_monkey Grand Master

phunky_monkey

Posted
Posted
I think the NC are the street or "light trackwork" pad. I used to have them in my cef I believe they're rated up to 350degrees. Never had em fade significantly even under heavy usage (but not circuit abuse).

The 800 ones are titan's or HCs or something.

Sorry, my bad. I have the Titan HC's.

Mr30: With a heat range from 0 it would indicate that they work from well cold, whereas if you see the range of the hawk blacks it starts at 300, indicating it needs a bit of temp to get them working well.

That's my understanding anyway :laugh:

Ferni uses DS3000's, or has in the past. He said they worked well, but chewed through rotors. Don't know how well they work from cold though.

grandmasterb Grand Master

grandmasterb

Posted
Posted

Tim the only real problem you will find running with pads like the DS3000's, PAGIDS, HAWKS is that they tend to require a little more heat in them before they really start to bite hard.

Now this isn't really a problem on most of the Targa stages but there are a few that have some hard braking in the first couple of k's.

I know when i was looking at pads last time for the 32 to run on the track i was having alot of trouble with locking wheels with the PAGID's and also with the EBC's that i tried.

Have a talk to Benno and ask what he was running (he would also know what Perry was running) personally i would go EBC yellows as i have tried and liked them in the past :happy:

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

yeah i've used DS3000 along with most of the other GTR track guys in sauvic. They chew your rotors big time when cold, so don't daily drive, but otherwise they are good. Need a bit of heat in them to get them to bite hard which may be your only issue for tarmac rally stuff compared to circuit sprints...

Targa Tom Proficient

Targa Tom

Posted
Posted

Used SBS DC from after trying EBC for two years in the R32. Used Dual Carbon ones, same calipers, same disc, similar weight...

Tried DS3000/2500 in Evo, ran sbs at Rally Tas - horn

Holywood will love 'em.

TT

t01-100 Mentor

t01-100

Posted
Posted (edited)

If you'd your willing to spend the dollars - Pagid RS42 (blue) is what you want (Competition Friction/V-Sport). Very very progressive feel, not hard on rotors, come on straight away even with serious ducting and perfect heat range for tarmac, particually considering you guys won't see the super long targa stages.

I used to circuit race the GTSt on Hawk Blacks, they were good but far too bitey for the road even if your running ABS. I've used the Pagids on my 200SX, GTST and GTR and they are simply awesome.

Edited by t01-100
t01-100 Mentor

t01-100

Posted
Posted

Further to GMB the EBC yellows are too high in the heat range and you've got nothing for the first corner... add ducting and you've got nothing for two corners!

EBC red are too low and you'll melt them... have seen it!

  • 2 weeks later...
Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted
If you'd your willing to spend the dollars - Pagid RS42 (blue) is what you want (Competition Friction/V-Sport). Very very progressive feel, not hard on rotors, come on straight away even with serious ducting and perfect heat range for tarmac, particually considering you guys won't see the super long targa stages.

I used to circuit race the GTSt on Hawk Blacks, they were good but far too bitey for the road even if your running ABS. I've used the Pagids on my 200SX, GTST and GTR and they are simply awesome.

Right on, I agree, the blue's are spot on on the std size rotor package. We used them on the Suby Sti that weighed 1850 kg with us in it, and only experienced slight fade on one stage....... Grasstree Hill on the way down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...