Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My bonet has etched mark on it, apparently was resprayed before I bought it. Also a few deep stone chips.

The body stripe also reveals that the left rear quarter panel may have been resprayed as well as the passenger doors.

Also a deep scratch 8cm long in the boot, not easy to touch up.

I also want to put in Type-M factory option front bumper + side skirts so it goes......

- $800 for fitting front bumper and side skirts and paint within this week...

- $1400 to repaint the bonnet + both front guards + extra $600 if I want the type-M bumper as well. Wait a month to get enough money for it.

- $3500 for full body respray. Wait 2 months to get enough money for it.

You guys reckon which one the best way to go ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/15852-paintwork-3-choices/
Share on other sites

This quote is from a workshop I know that have high quality job. They did a panel respray on my previous car and I couldn't spot the repair, very professional. They are only 2 blocks away from where I live so that's a bonus point, I can just walk up there to pick up the car when it's finished.

If you know someone else in Melbourne who can do a top quality respray for much less than $3500, let me know. And I mean top quality, no dodgy cheap jobs.

hehehe...

who said my car is black????

my car is wine red, so even if I bought your bumper, I will need a $800 respray anyway.....

and I already have the bumper and side skirts already.

so I can't buy another one.

I will have a standard (non type M) bumper in burgundy for sale in a few weeks after I put on this type M bumper on.

well F#%k you for caring but i dont think it would cost to get a standard type m front bar sprayed and fitted for $600 if you bought my bar for $150 resprayed shouldnt cost you more than $100-$150 thats $300 but u know what you can get f%#cked cause i aint selling your poor arss nothing!

hmmmm seems that I've got three votes for $3500 full professional respray.

maybe that's the way to go to ensure that the paints are all uniform throughout the whole body... rather than a patch here and there? beside that body stripe looks a bit like the 80s anyway.

I have been around a few spray paint joints here in adelaide and asked for a cheap blow over that looks good.. Basically nothing fancy just nice and clean looking.

oh that will be $5000... WTF i asked for a cheap job....

I have had 3 quotes and all have been 5grand...

bit of tension felt in this thread

ease up guys!

i think save ur money for the full job. $3500 is a good price.

other wise you will end up paying more in the long run when you want to get other parts painted too.

Just a suggestion. If you are about to fit a m-spec front bar to your car, do what i have done to mine (attachment below), so that is you decide to get a fmic in the future you will have full air flow to it.

Take it to a plastic welder (i took mine to a bumper repair shop, in Airport West) tell him to cut the middle bar off (the one that supports the number plate) and use the off cuts to seal the remaining cut outs.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...