Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I have a 97 R33 GTSt Coupe and recently had the front lip plastic welded up and resprayed due to the fact that is was f**ed when i got it (Cost me $400). Driving out of a driveway in a heavy rain storm, it tapped on the curb and disentegrated. Car is STD ride height and I'm not an idiot (most of the time).

I have looked around but haven't had much luck finding a company who can supply a well made good quality front bar or lip in Sydney. What do you guys use on your S2 GTST coupes? I dont want some piece of crap 3rd hand copy bar hanging off my car... Where can I go to get some quality?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/158931-s2-r33-gtst-coupe-front-bar/
Share on other sites

hey chris i have the actual same problem and i am after a front lip for my 97 gtst as well.

so i will be interested in wat people ave to say as well. you posted up before i did on the sae topic.haha.

i am more nsw victoria border though,

Hi Cliff, I paid $400 for a plastic welder to weld it all up, but on light impact, it fell apart along the original cracks. It was a waste of money I would say. I am considering going a new front bar completely at the monent, but I want to get something that is half decent and wont fall apart. I am trying to work out whether I should get a new front bar, or just the lip.

Can people with S2 R33 gtst's post up what they have done in this situation?

Please help as I am getting sick of driving around a car that is constantly broken visually.

Edited by Chris_R33GTSt
Hi Cliff, I paid $400 for a plastic welder to weld it all up, but on light impact, it fell apart along the original cracks. It was a waste of money I would say. I am considering going a new front bar completely at the monent, but I want to get something that is half decent and wont fall apart. I am trying to work out whether I should get a new front bar, or just the lip.

Can people with S2 R33 gtst's post up what they have done in this situation?

Please help as I am getting sick of driving around a car that is constantly broken visually.

yeh i am the same i have been tossing up between a new front bar or front lip as well. cause i really like the look of the front lip but i dunno if i wanna spend my money on that or if i should just go all out and replace the whole front bar

I believe at some point in time, my car kissed a gutter in Japan, and was very poorly repaired. EG; Skiaflex was used to *Glue* the pieces of front lip back on to the bar and then resprayed. I had it plastic welded back together, but even plastic welding didn't give it the strength that I was looking for, so I have now wasted $400 that I could have put to a more practical use.

My Type M Lip is now so f**d that It could never be repaired. As I see it: Option 1: is to buy a new lip from Nissan (Expensive but gaurenteed result) or Option 2: Find the best fibreglass bar I can find and chance it with that.

Where can I find some good body kit parts from in Sydney?

I believe at some point in time, my car kissed a gutter in Japan, and was very poorly repaired. EG; Skiaflex was used to *Glue* the pieces of front lip back on to the bar and then resprayed. I had it plastic welded back together, but even plastic welding didn't give it the strength that I was looking for, so I have now wasted $400 that I could have put to a more practical use.

My Type M Lip is now so f**d that It could never be repaired. As I see it: Option 1: is to buy a new lip from Nissan (Expensive but gaurenteed result) or Option 2: Find the best fibreglass bar I can find and chance it with that.

Where can I find some good body kit parts from in Sydney?

These guys are in Aus and sell areplica front lip. I have asked where in Aus you guys can buy as this buy/sell site is NZ based. Hopefully he answers!

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.as...amp;permanent=0

I bought a whole bumper to obtain a lip. On arrial I saw it was pretty beat up with half arsed repair. I have since patched it up with fibreglass and had it attached fnished and pinted to the bumper. Time will tell how well the repair was done, but I'm confident it will hold. If any one decides to repair with fibreglass, don't reinforce with too many layers at once as when he resin/glass heats up and cures it can warp.

Hope this helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...