Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

People should keep in mind that the warranty sold by dealers isn't worth the paper its printed on

thats just rediculous

if your having problems with a dealer warranty then take it up with them , but the warranties are firmly biased towards the consumer and 99% of the time state consumer departments will side with the customer

even outside of the context of the 3 month statutory dealers warranty you have fair trading legislation which gives implied warranties on all goods . These state the product must be fit for purpose and of merchantable quality with no serious defects or faults.

http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/business...andrepairs.html

take on the dealer and you will almost always win

thats just rediculous

if your having problems with a dealer warranty then take it up with them , but the warranties are firmly biased towards the consumer and 99% of the time state consumer departments will side with the customer

even outside of the context of the 3 month statutory dealers warranty you have fair trading legislation which gives implied warranties on all goods . These state the product must be fit for purpose and of merchantable quality with no serious defects or faults.

http://www.fairtrading.nsw.gov.au/business...andrepairs.html

take on the dealer and you will almost always win

If you have a good look at the details about the only thing it covers is if you throw a rod through the side of the block and even then the amount they pay hardly pays for a quality rebuild so really is useless

why should the dealer pay for a forged rebuild if you throw a rod ?

hardly apples for apples is it

point is you buy a car with a f**ked engine they will have to fix it , the car has to be fit for purpose and a dead engine isnt fit for purpose . most places would just source another 2nd hand engine and swap it and i think thats a pretty reasonable solution

why should the dealer pay for a forged rebuild if you throw a rod ?

hardly apples for apples is it

point is you buy a car with a f**ked engine they will have to fix it , the car has to be fit for purpose and a dead engine isnt fit for purpose . most places would just source another 2nd hand engine and swap it and i think thats a pretty reasonable solution

I never said they should pay for a forged rebuild there is such thing as a standard rebuild. The dealer doesnt pay for the warranty repairs the warranty company do so the dealer isnt too concerned if the car has a engine on its way out.

i went there around middle of last year looking at an r33 gtst s2 they had, they wanted 26k for it, but we did end up gettin them down to 21k, which is still wayyyyy to much...so we walked off

dealers will always be more expenisive then private sales, others rekon dealer cars are in better condition, i dont totally agree

private sales FTW !!! :)

also is it true that if you buy a car from a dealer, that you have to take it back to them for every service? otherwise your warrenty is void?

Each service must be done by a proper mechanic and the receipt sent to the warranty company everything must be done on time too

warranty is only good for big problems with the car such as the turbo.....the AVWG people wouldnt help me when my welsh plugs gave way.....so yeah...if you get a very good condition car, then you wouldnt need a warranty

I never said they should pay for a forged rebuild there is such thing as a standard rebuild. The dealer doesnt pay for the warranty repairs the warranty company do so the dealer isnt too concerned if the car has a engine on its way out.

a standard rebuild is still providing a repair beyond the level of the original part , the engine in a skylines done 50000 - 100000km and a have a fair amount of wear on them , the dealer is quite within his rights to provide a similar 2nd hand engine

if your talking about the aftersales warranties sold at an extra cost like all states then you will find their claims are all limited to a certain amount , a few thousand dollars usually . The dealer also has to provide a statutory dealers warranty , which is not cost limited which in most states is 3 months / 5000km . On top of that the dealer has to comply with fair trading legislation which gives implied warranties which are not cost or time limited . So its in the dealers interest not to sell f**ked engines even if he is selling aftermarket warranties with the cars.

even if you have one of these aftermarket warranties you are totally within your rights to make the dealer fix something under the fair trading statutes or the dealers warranty . once that expires use your own warranty

some dealers are dodgy and will try and avoid their obligations , but the law is always on the consumers side . you just have to enforce it

Edited by arkon
a standard rebuild is still providing a repair beyond the level of the original part , the engine in a skylines done 50000 - 100000km and a have a fair amount of wear on them , the dealer is quite within his rights to provide a similar 2nd hand engine

So then wouldnt the dealer just provide cheapest dodgiest engine they can find as it only needs to last a month or 2 more

possibly , but if you could prove it was dodgy you would win every time and hes back where he started. infact you wouldnt even have to prove it , if you took that senario to the fair trade commission they would side with you in a second especialy if the dealer had a history

the dealer could have you killed in the middle of the night and your car crushed into a cube and thrown into the sea to avoid a warranty claim too

Edited by arkon

I bot a car from a guy who had a dealer warranty (he bot it from JapLink) and it was transferrable. It gave me a certain level of comfort when buying the car.

I did need to have the dealer do all the work to maintain the warranty, First oil change was at a small premium to the price at other shops I checked but not stupidly so. The JapLink guys were very decent to deal with.

The bigger issue was that vehicles are excluded from coverage if it is a "Vehicle modified beyond manufacturers specifications". I'd assume that covers most anything except cosmetic items.

People should keep in mind that the warranty sold by dealers isn't worth the paper its printed on

dunno how you figure that

i got repairs worth more than what i paid for my warranty done through avwg

I bot a car from a guy who had a dealer warranty (he bot it from JapLink) and it was transferrable. It gave me a certain level of comfort when buying the car.

I did need to have the dealer do all the work to maintain the warranty, First oil change was at a small premium to the price at other shops I checked but not stupidly so. The JapLink guys were very decent to deal with.

The bigger issue was that vehicles are excluded from coverage if it is a "Vehicle modified beyond manufacturers specifications". I'd assume that covers most anything except cosmetic items.

JapLink's warranty covers you after modifications, as long as those modifications are carried out by a workshop and you have receipts to prove it.

You're right though, they're very good blokes to deal with, the owner Sami is a top bloke and always friendly. Personally I mod the car myself and forget about the warranty because the money I save on doing the work myself is worth more than whats covered in the warranty anyway (for most components). I still get my car serviced by them though because they're still reasonably priced, friendly and got a good workshop and rep.

  • 1 month later...

I used to work for ELJAC (ed lees) and have to say that in the time i was there i witnessed both awesome quality vehicles and poor quality vehicles. Dodgy sales and great sales. I am however happy to say that the car i bought from them (before i worked there) was reasonably priced compared to others on the market and they were happy to perform necessary works within the statuatory warranty period. When my clutch died (it was factory unit) they replaced it, when my turbo seals went (wear and tear over time) they did the necessary work. Sam in the workshop is a great bloke and good at what he does. Arvin is awesome also. As for the owner (Mr P.Lee) he is a top bloke also but the sales manager (lets call him mr B) he is not so nice and is the reason i cant get a job in the industry again... In saying that, i did enjoy my time with the company and im not bad mouthing them. Car is still going great!!!

I bought a bottle of coca cola from Coles today in sunshine, the customer assistant was called Cloe.

damn, i just want to say ... wow, great service highly recommended.

man, seriously... ha haha

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...