Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I just recently received a lovely EPA notice in the mail to get my exhaust tested for noise.

I personally didnt think my car was that loud - but it does fail.

The new EPA laws state that the noise needs to be under 90db, including when you back of (the drone/rev down also cannot go over 90db)

I have a R34 4-Door with a Blitz NUR Spec cat back exhaust - what exhausts/options do I have to get her quiet but still let her breath with a good exhaust???

I want to make it a permanent change - not a quick fix just so i can get the EPA off.......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159220-need-a-quiet-exhaust-copped-a-epa/
Share on other sites

maybe a resonator would help ..ask your local exhaust shop

yeah that was the first thing I asked....... they said forget about it, it wont help.

I was suprised at that... do resonators make that much of a big difference??

maybe i should get a second opinion ay??? :(

Mine used to be 86db at idle and 106db at 4000rpm or so, and is now 84db at 4000rpm. I got two big arse mufflers put on, still all a 3 inch system tho, and I didnt have too much of a loss of power. So maybe you could get away with a resinator and a big arse muffler. If thats any help.

Cost me about $300 including the db tests.

i also got epa recently...... i put the stock muffler back on.........but seeing u want a permanant fix you would probly need a large oval style rear muffler which u can get in 3 inch strate through.......all those canons are going to be loud.... and geting bigger centre resonator does help abit.......

A resonator after you cat will help a lot. I've got a decent sized resonator (not the hot dog style) and an oval muffler on the end with 3" stainless piping all the way. Although it's never been checked I was told by the exhaust shop that the setup is under the 90dB limit (they said it should be about 88dB). Apparently a cannon muffler would put it just over.

I personally would like it to be a little louder than it is but the whole point of getting it done that way was to avoid attracting any attention to it. I still got a noticeable performance gain and I guess that's the main point of doing the exhaust in the first place :)

Just found this on the Jap Yahoo auctions.

Translated it seems to be a quitening Cat Converter that drops noise by 10db

Wouldn't mind one myself.

Commuting noise an hour each way is getting a little annoying

Slidewize should be able to get you one.

http://page15.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/t29306014

Hi all,

I just recently received a lovely EPA notice in the mail to get my exhaust tested for noise.

I personally didnt think my car was that loud - but it does fail.

The new EPA laws state that the noise needs to be under 90db, including when you back of (the drone/rev down also cannot go over 90db)

I have a R34 4-Door with a Blitz NUR Spec cat back exhaust - what exhausts/options do I have to get her quiet but still let her breath with a good exhaust???

I want to make it a permanent change - not a quick fix just so i can get the EPA off.......

How did the EPA know ur over the limit? Did u get a licky and a noise test done at the pits? Which state is this happening in?

As for ur fix, i'd say replace the Blitz muffler with an oval type one, shame tho coz it'll just restrict flow once again.

How did the EPA know ur over the limit? Did u get a licky and a noise test done at the pits? Which state is this happening in?

As for ur fix, i'd say replace the Blitz muffler with an oval type one, shame tho coz it'll just restrict flow once again.

I got done in my own drive way dude!!!!!

driving home from the gym, i didnt even see them, i get outa my car at home and i see a cop in my driveway...

get this..... im dripping sweat, i have a towel and a bottle of water in my hand, and they still gave me a breath test. As if you'd knock down 6 beers after the gym????

they reckon it was a random check, didnt mention anything else...... a week later.... EPA notice in the mail......

ohh and im in vic by the way.....

Edited by FULOCK

Hey guys, i drive a R32 GTR and i got epa about a month ago..

As my exahust i have a 3 1/2 inch cat back system and the car was way too loud for standard 90 DB, so what i did, i wealded a plate in between the front pipe and the cat....

This has brough me down to 88 DB making me just pass....

But make sure guys when you do this that the plate is propperly wealded to the cat with three 10 mm holse in the plate that you are going to weald also try not to drive the car not over 3 thousand rev's others wise you will blow your exhaust seals...

Guys if you get this and you have to go there, dont go there with just a plate in between, otherwise you will get a $500 FINE!!! at Maclouds

hope to be a help

you can have mine i hate it, i have no idea why anyone would have put it on the car, i can't even hear my engine with the windows up all i can here is the exhaust and the turbo :D its a 5 1/2 HKS superdrager stupid size bottoms out on bloody everything and yes it is all the way through why? i have no clue doesnt seem right to me at all :D dont think it would pass but :worship:

Edited by Woody1

I got done not long ago too! I had a straight through 3" with an oval muffler at the rear. It wasn't really all that loud except for occasional crack and pop! It was 98db and got a mid

muffler box put in and is now 87db but feels like someone stuck a but plug up it!

I have been looking at some of the nifty gadgets A'PEXi have to offer like the 'Active tail silencer'

or that crazy valve you can put in your exhaust. But to get it cleared you will need something

noticeable that they can see, because they take photos from how it was before. Another person i know was actually aloud to put his cannon silencer in before testing..... didn't help him any though.

I have to say the EPA were very professional and helpful.

Also check out the new varex muffler from x-force. It is a muffler that has a valve built in that opens and closes by remote control. When open its a straight through muffler, but when closed it diverts the flow through the sides of the muffler and is much quieter. It was reviewed in autosalon magazone this much, and apparently performed very well. I will be using or at least trialing it on my next car.

in regards to this. has anyone had much too do with those adjustable mufflers that can be set to be straight through, or quiet??? (as seen in several magazines now)

Does anyone have an idea of how loud a 3" turbo back, with sumthing like this (in db - set to its quietest setting) be on say an rb25??

p.s sorry if this is a hijack, although it could also be seen as a possible solution to the problem :P

edit: apoligies, didn't notice the post directly above me :P

Edited by l_uk3y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...