Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok heres the problem

I hit a bump, and BAM

Shit started smoking, adn through elimination its #1

WHen you unplug the fuel injector it is fine, smoke goes away

plug it in, smoke city

it runs on 5

when i plug #1 injector in, it wants to die in like 2 seconds flat, and will only stay running, barely with some throttle.

all 6 plugs have same appearance

all 6 cylinders have same compression, wiht no loss within 5 minutes of pressure.

i cant figure this shit out.

any ideas?

I also swapped #1 and #2 fuel injectors, same problem

i haevnt done the coil packs yet.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/159627-i-lost-a-cylinder/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

*yep, all that suspension expertise is REALLY paying off now*

Sounds like a spark problem - try swapping over the coil packs to be sure and have a really close look at the casing when you are doing it - a break in the plastic coating could be shorting out the spark.

Also check all the obvious stuff like ecu plugs, injector connections etc.

Just be careful - if the piezo is stuffed you may be pumping raw fuel into your turbo (which would explain the smoke) and that won't be doing thebearings or seals any favours whatsoever.

it was tyres,not suspension. He told me he knew everything already,so I haven't seen a need to reply to any of his threads since. I have a theory for this one as well,but since yokota knows better than us,I'm sure he'll find his own answer.

Justin...

I dont think you guys should be so facetious, he asked a valid question and asked for help. I am sure if this was anyone else he would've not got the responces that he has.

So either post helpful things or dont post. We are not 5yrs old here and this is not a playground, so grow the f up!

I dont think you guys should be so facetious, he asked a valid question and asked for help. I am sure if this was anyone else he would've not got the responces that he has.

So either post helpful things or dont post. We are not 5yrs old here and this is not a playground, so grow the f up!

Oooh, testy!

I was just making the point that having lowered the car so much, restricted suspension travel and removed any cushioning effects offered by a sensibly sized tyre sidewall, the chances of anything going bang over a bump is greatly enhanced.

I was not being facetious. I did try to offer some help so back the F off! Blanket statements like that don't do anyone any favours.

and have a lovely day..... :D

Oh, and Yokota's, when you do get this sorted, make sure you at least check and clean the O2 sensor in your 'zorst because right now it will be coping a hammering.

Edited by newbie101

my suspension setup has nothing to do with me hitting a huge ass dip/bump in the road retards.

shit happens, and im trying to fix it.

when you push boundaries shit breaks. its part of the territory

But, im slaving 6 coilpacks form another r33 tomorrow to see if it fixes it.

it should just be a bad coilpack hopefully

Look, i fit the wheels, suspension and everything works

Its not a perfect ride, but se, i know it wouldnt when i did it

You guys said it oculdnt be done, i did it. now dont be sore asses and deal with it.

and i just found out a friend with a 32 GTR had the same problem and it was a coilpack....after hitting a bump....with nothing near as low as my car.

even if i have a series 1 stag?

but on a sidenote, who cares what caused it (a huge dip int he road), lets try and focus on the answer. I dont know much about rhe RB series motor, which is why im asking about it

my suspension setup has nothing to do with me hitting a huge ass dip/bump in the road retards.

No, but what you did to the suspension WILL have an effect on how your car deals with the impact

You guys said it oculdnt be done, i did it. now dont be sore asses and deal with it.

Nobody told you it couldn't be done, you were just told it would be impractical, cause more drama's down the road and cost you more money and heartache. If you continue with the pedantic whining know-it-all attitude you will be finding it harder and harder to get useful information from anyone here. I'm just glad I don't have to deal with it - you do! :P

If you need any help with the RB series engine and diagnostic, post here

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...php?showforum=8

and show some of them guys the same smart arse attitude - see how far it gets you.

look, its not know it all

its that i know what i can do with a suspension

whether its ideal, practial, honestly doenst really matter. Most things i do arent really the best.

But i know it works, its not efficient which is why i am workign on a custom coilover setup

But when on an engine issue such as this have i been know it all?

I havent, so it doesnt belong in the thread

for all i know the bump might not have had anythign to do with it, or it could have. But shit happens, and im willing to pay for it, i just am looking for ideas to help me figure out how much i have to dish out.

but on a side note, i do apologize if i did piss anyone off, or come off as a know it all

I just am a smartass by nature, 4doorwhore knows it

Im hardheaded, and work at things until i get htem to work...its just how i am

i do apologize if i did piss anyone off, or come off as a know it all

I just am a smartass by nature, 4doorwhore knows it

Im hardheaded, and work at things until i get htem to work...its just how i am

what? who are you?? :) haha

WHen you unplug the fuel injector it is fine, smoke goes away

plug it in, smoke city

That does't sound like a crook coil pack. If it was, there would be no difference between having the injector plugged in or not.

Sounds like the injector is being held open the whole time. Try to get a dwell meter or CRO to check the injector pulsing on that injector. Sounds like it's holding that injector open the whole time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
    • It says 300ZX, does that make it an Aus delivered car? Funny how back in the day I just couldn't care less about Z32's and these days I am just in love with them. Back when Nissan was into pushing the envelope. 🤣
    • Hi guys, just after some guidance with an R34 sunroof that has stopped working correctly. It still opens and closes perfectly fine, but it no longer tilts/vents up or down. As a result, the rear of the glass now sags a bit as it drops down slightly in order to retract into the roof, but now it can't pop upwards into a flush position. I’ve probed the pins on the back of the switch connector with a multimeter and it seems like both switches (for open/close and tilt/vent) still work correctly. Any ideas on what it could be, or where I should even start in terms of diagnosing? I'm sure someone's had this issue before but I haven't been able to find anything online relating to this specific issue, most of the issues are with the seals leaking or the motor failing entirely. Thanks in advance!
×
×
  • Create New...