Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just wondering whether power steering resevoirs need to breath to avoid vaccum??

i've installed a custom one and the previous owner (which i have no reason to doubt) is telling me it wasnt needed, yet i think its caused a leak with my power steering pump.

the standard ones obviously breath as many people know due to their leaking and the one i have has a screw on lid. any ideas? i've got no issue about drilling a 1mm in the lid which is what im thinking about doing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160162-power-steering-resevoir/
Share on other sites

Not sealed? ;)

Which engine is this on?

If the PS pump has crapped out, putting a hole in the lid won't fix the problem.

I think you'll find the reason that so many people experience issues with leaking, is because most people are still running the original hoses, which have understandably perished over time.

However, I'm always happy for people to prove me wrong, it's all in the interest of learning :O

haha im not hoping to fix the problem by putting a hole in the lid.

ill try explain myself better... the standard resevoir leaks while doing some track work and hard cornering so i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed, since i have reconditioned the pump and going to install it. now what i think is that due to the lid on the resevoir being sealed is caused the pump problem and to avoid it im thinking about drilling a hole in the lid.

its an rb20

Edited by silver gts-t

I know bugger all about the RB20, (can't be too different from the other RB's) but from watching everyone elses issues, I'd say that the leak was caused simply by age.

If the original lid had a dodgy seal, it wouldn't have been creating the type of pressure that it should have been, and as soon as it was under the proper amount of pressure it's just gone "BLEH"

(If that makes sense)

I'll stop with the guesswork now, and leave it to someone who knows their stuff >_<

The power steering system should be only pressurised between the pump and the solenoid on the steering rack.

If the entire system was pressurised then you wouldnt be able to open the lid to top it up without it releasing the pressure and spraying fluid everywhere, in addition to this a perished hose would split and the offending leak would be a spray instead of a simple weeping of a small amount of fluid.

i cant say 100% that the use of a vent in the resevoir is what is required here only that the assumption of the system being completely pressurised does not seem correct.

Is it only when you are on the track and doing fast cornering etc? becuase i have heard, and im not 100 % on this, that people put a sock over their reservoir to avoid leaks, aslong as the leaks arent coming out of any of the lines or rack, or pump, then it isnt anyhting major

haha im not hoping to fix the problem by putting a hole in the lid.

ill try explain myself better... the standard resevoir leaks while doing some track work and hard cornering so i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed, since i have reconditioned the pump and going to install it. now what i think is that due to the lid on the resevoir being sealed is caused the pump problem and to avoid it im thinking about drilling a hole in the lid.

its an rb20

did you guys read this?

it clearly states that the issue that im trying to rectify is if the custom resevoir has caused my PS pump to leak.

i know the standard resevoir leaks and its for this reason it has been changed.

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir?

i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL

just trying to confirm

did you guys read this?

it clearly states that the issue that im trying to rectify is if the custom resevoir has caused my PS pump to leak.

i know the standard resevoir leaks and its for this reason it has been changed.

Obviously, IF FLUID DOES NOT HAVE A RELIEF IE A WAY OUT TO RELEIVE THE PRESSURE WHICH IS USUALLY VIA THE LID ( WHICH ACTS AS A BREATHER) DURING AN INTENSE TRACK SESSION THEN OBVIOUSLY SEALS WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO....as they are the weakest link

I think common sense would indicate if the power steer system never leaked before except for the lid during a track day, then suddenly you changed a variable that it would be the cause. Or the first component you would look at.

I personally wouldnt drill a hole in the reservoir as tiny bits of crap/dirt might make its way into your fluid. Could possibly try and find some sort of breather kit maybe....

Also would appreciate it if you can remove the patronising tone. :wave:

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir?

i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL

just trying to confirm

I think it would, you would just have to increase the amount of fluid in the system.

Obviously, IF FLUID DOES NOT HAVE A RELIEF IE A WAY OUT TO RELEIVE THE PRESSURE WHICH IS USUALLY VIA THE LID ( WHICH ACTS AS A BREATHER) DURING AN INTENSE TRACK SESSION THEN OBVIOUSLY SEALS WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO....as they are the weakest link

I think common sense would indicate if the power steer system never leaked before except for the lid during a track day, then suddenly you changed a variable that it would be the cause. Or the first component you would look at.

I personally wouldnt drill a hole in the reservoir as tiny bits of crap/dirt might make its way into your fluid. Could possibly try and find some sort of breather kit maybe....

Also would appreciate it if you can remove the patronising tone. :laugh:

there was no tone at all, it was a typed question.

i know that it was the most probable cause as i previously said here "i pressume that the lid is not air tight, now after installing a custom resevoir which has a screw on lid which is air tight caused the power steering pump pulley seal is stuffed"

i was just asking for opinion as there maybe something else to the whole system that i may have missed.

also would appreciate it if you didnt pressume my tone :)

  • 3 months later...

Hi Guys, need advice on this problem.

I recently fixed a leak power steering hose on the top of the pump couple of weeks ago. The warning sound appeared everytime when started cold. Quite a comprehensive job as the steering rack had to be remove. Anyway after replacing with a 2nd hand part (still in good condition) but handling still suffer as it was harder turning left than on the right. After 3 weeks and still figuring out whether the alignment shop did a proper job, i found the the cap opened (half tilted) with no fluid down to the white filter in the reservoir. But there was fluid around the reservoir and the hose behind the power steering pump (a clamp is used to tighten it).

1) Is there air bubble or pressure pushing the lit up?

2) The clamp may not be tighten properly that air has got into the system?

3) The power steering pump needs to be changed?

Appreciate everyone's feedback.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheers. Skyline is back on the menu, can’t get rid of it. It’s like a child you don’t want, or herpes 
    • I got back to Japan in January and was keen to get back on track as quickly as possible. Europe is god-awful for track accessibility (by comparison), so I picked up a first-gen GT86 in December just to have something I could jump into right away. The Skyline came over in a container this time and landed in early January. It was a bit battered after Europe, though—I refused to do anything beyond essential upkeep while it was over there. The clutch master cylinder gave out, and so did the power steering. I didn’t even bother changing the oil; it was the same stuff that went in just before I left Japan the first time. Naughty. Power steering parts would’ve cost double with shipping and taxes, so knowing I’d be heading back to Japan, I just postponed it and powered through the arm workout. It took a solid three months to get the car back on the road. Registration was a nightmare this time around. There were a bunch of BS fees to navigate, and sourcing parts was a headache. I needed stock seats for shaken, mistakenly blew 34k JPY on some ENR34 seats—which, of course, didn’t fit—then ended up having the car’s technical sheet amended to register it as a two-seater with the Brides. Then there’s the GT86. Amazing car. Does everything I want it to do. Parts are cheap, easy to find, and I don’t care what anyone says—it’s super rewarding to drive. I’ve done a few basic mods: diff ratio, coilovers, discs, pads, seat, etc. It already had a new exhaust manifold and the 180kph limiter removed, so I assume it’s running some kind of map. I’ve just been thrashing it at the track non-stop—mostly Fuji Speedway now, since I need something with higher speed after all that autobahn time. The wheels on the R34 always pissed me off—too big, and it was a nightmare getting tires to fit properly under the arches. So I threw in the towel and bought something that fits better. Looks way cleaner too (at least to me)—less hotboy, less attention-seeking. Still an R34, though. Now for future plans. There are a few things still outstanding with the car. First up, the rear subframe needs an overhaul—that’s priority one. Next, I need to figure out an engine rebuild plan. No timeline yet, but I want to keep it economical—not cutting corners, just not throwing tens of thousands at a mechanic I can barely communicate with. And finally, paint. Plus a bit of tidying up here and there.  
    • Nope, needed to clearance under the bar a little with a heat gun, a 1/2" extension as the "clearancer", and big hammer, I was aware of this from the onset, they fit a 2.0 with this intake no problems, but, the 2.5 is around 15mm taller than a 2.0, so "clearancing" was required  It "just" touched when test fitting, now, I have about 10mm of clearance  You cannot see where it was done, and so far, there's no contact when giving it the beans Happy days
    • It's been a while since I've updated this thread. The last year (and some) has been very hectic. In the second-half of 2024 I took the R34 on a trip through Germany, Italy, France and Switzerland - it was f*cking great. I got a little annoyed with the attention the car was getting around Europe and really didn't drive it that much. I could barely work on the car since I was living in an inner-city apartment (with underground parking). During the trip, the car lost power steering in France - split hose - and I ended up driving around 4,000kms with no power steering.  There were a few Nurburgring trips here and there, but in total the R34 amassed just shy of 7,000kms on European roads. Long story short, I broke up with the reason I was transferred to Europe for and requested to be moved back to Japan. The E90, loved it. It was a sunk cost of around EUR 10,000 and I sold it to a friend for EUR 1,500 just to get rid of it quickly. Trust me, moving countries f*cking sucks and I could not be bothered to be as methodical as I was the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...