Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah same shape as 33 gtr dont know about thinkness, slightly different colour than 33gtr

not to sure if the bolt straight in, i believe they do,

you are more than welcome to remove your passenger seat, and try fitting this in b4 you buy

after ure phone number, pm sent

look mate at the risk of loosing this possible sale from you, the reason i asked to speak to you over the phone was for three reasons, one that it is slow and painful over the net sometimes, and i wanted to secure the sale, two it said price drop frm $450 but no new price and three, i needed to check you out as you are a noobie with next to no time on forum with no trader rating, ive been scammed out of money once this week by a noobie trader and i wanted to make sure it didnt happen a second time, (no offence intended) So what is the price after the price drop? i wanted to know so i can make you an offer. and saying make an offer and ignoring the request for a phone number seems kinda suss! see where im coming from? I wouldnt be the only one thinking this after my interaction with you. all that aside as soon as you say what ure asking price is I will make you an offer on the passenger seat, cheers Damo

Mate not everyone lives on the forums, people have jobs and other stuff to do....its only been 6 hours since he was on last....patience....

listen champ, i didnt mention a word about getting the seller to hurry up, and yes i am aware peple have jobs etc and dont live on forums, l o o k again and read c a r e f u l l y, you may actually get what i am saying :( and also and if youre not interested in what he is selling why bother? maybe you dont have a job and do live on the forums and have nothing better to do than bug people trying to buy/sell things :D

haha nice one

as i said to you, if you wanna make an offer feel free

however in pm i did state to you that im not interested in seperating unless the offer was right

the current price is 450!! i had a higher price on there, however i changed that when i said price drop

thanks for your concern

and as to being a noob, have you looked at when you joined??

haha nice one

as i said to you, if you wanna make an offer feel free

however in pm i did state to you that im not interested in seperating unless the offer was right

the current price is 450!! i had a higher price on there, however i changed that when i said price drop

thanks for your concern

and as to being a noob, have you looked at when you joined??

ok dude, i get ure point (lol) but the distinct advantages i have over you as a noob are that i have a trader ratinig alothought its only 1 (lol) and i have used the forums since Jan this year, but who cares eh, i would like to offer you $250 and pay the freight on the passenger seat, i think thats a good deal, all you have to is get $200 for drivers side seat, which is totally do-able, let me know, cheers

ok dude, i get ure point (lol) but the distinct advantages i have over you as a noob are that i have a trader ratinig alothought its only 1 (lol) and i have used the forums since Jan this year, but who cares eh, i would like to offer you $250 and pay the freight on the passenger seat, i think thats a good deal, all you have to is get $200 for drivers side seat, which is totally do-able, let me know, cheers

whats the go? u interested or should i look elsewhere? cheers, Damo

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...