Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Possibly due to the getrag box???

I'm not sure,I was going to reco a 33 gtr twin plate for my 34, but I don't want to waste my time.

Not the same Rick. Get a Nismo coppermix twin mate you will be very happy with it, I know they are pricey.

So you have to change the flywheel when you even get a single plate if the flywheel needs machining at all? And does that mean that a 33 GTR twin which comes with its own flywheel is ok?

Rick I think you will find the spline on the shaft is different so the 33GTR clutch is no good to you .

R34 GTR flywheels are dual mass ( 2 piece ) just like subaru liberty .

I agree with that and the latest coppermix is even better.

I spoke at length with wrxhoon and others before deciding that for the mainly commuting and road driving (vs drags or track work), i was better with a single which Jim Berry built for me with uprated pressure plate, and new single mass flywheel. It was obviously cheaper, but was even lighter clutch action and a dream to use on my daily sydney commute. I am really happy, I know wrxhoon is happy with his coppermix, and others will be with theirs, so its probably about application 1st, then decide on the best clutch brand material etc etc.

Cheers

Ned

I spoke to Jim berry and he does go for the single, but at $1800 with flywheel I believe I could get a nengun nismo twin in...unless I can find a better value single which sounds like it needs a flywheel anyway, I might just have to keep saving.

are the nismo twin plates noisy at all? just wondering because a mate of mine has a F6 with a $4000 twin plate from over east which is meant to handle 1000rwhp but at idle its pretty damn noisy. His clutch is very hardcore, but i wouldnt want a clutch in daily driver that was making rattles and what not.

are the nismo twin plates noisy at all? just wondering because a mate of mine has a F6 with a $4000 twin plate from over east which is meant to handle 1000rwhp but at idle its pretty damn noisy. His clutch is very hardcore, but i wouldnt want a clutch in daily driver that was making rattles and what not.

thats most likely to be the gearbox not the clutch if it goes away with the clutch pedal depressed.

its normal for a bit of noise in the gearbox when idleing. put the foot on the clutch and it should go away though.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...