Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You guys don't understand what he is asking....

Yes, the auto "parkbrake" is mounted on the floor, But the release lever (equivalent of a normal handbrake button) is mounted on the center console.

He wants to know if the mount for the release lever is the same as the A31 manual handbrake lever mount.

Unfortunately, the answer is no.

I just got the R32 handbrake lever, sat it on the trans tunnel, mark the holes, drill a few holes, bolt it in.

I'm pretty sure the R32 handbrake mount is the way to go. Probably better to weld it in rather than drill and bolt. There will be a hole in the trans tunnel for the cable to pass through, it has a plate tack welded over it and is filled with some silicon rubber stuff. If you get rid of that crap first, put the cable through the hole and bolt the cover down, that will give a good indication of where to mount the handbrake lever on the tunnel.

If you can't be bothered finding an A31 factory manual center console, you will need to cut a fair bit out of your automatic center console to get it to fit.

Then you have to worry about sorting out your handbrake cables, but thats a different story.

Edited by daisu

yea tru, didnt realy wanna drill

i'm gonna have 2 find me a small cheap ass welder den :(

EDIT:

Then you have to worry about sorting out your handbrake cables, but thats a different story.

the guys on d1nz forums told me dat da front r32 handbrake/handbrake line connects to the rear auto a31 handbrake cable

There will be a hole in the trans tunnel for the cable to pass through, it has a plate tack welded over it and is filled with some silicon rubber stuff. If you get rid of that crap first, put the cable through the hole and bolt the cover down, that will give a good indication of where to mount the handbrake lever on the tunnel.

yea i felt some soft crap on the tunnel, i think it needs 2 be mounted a lil more higher den where da soft putty is.

but yea thanks alot

Edited by Dan_J

underneath that soft stuff are indents for the manual piece - just drill them out and it should sit perfectly

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/RS1...dbrakesetup.jpg

for the cabling underneath you need to cut off the splitter on the end of the 32 cable (but not the cable or the end thing) - then attach it to the U thing

see here for guide - http://d1nz.org.nz/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2...c&start=225

isnt S13 rear cradle/rear subframe da same as r32?

just and da handbrake line being posible different

im not sure about r32 gtst subframe. but s13 n r32 gtr is different subframe u need to make custom bushes to fit them.

  • 1 month later...

i used a handbrake lever from an r32 4 door when converting my ceffy. theres a plate tack welded onto the floor covering the mounting hole. bash that out and drill some holes to mount the actual lever assembly :closedeyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...