Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

just wondering from a few of you with a bit of experience with drag racing in skylines, what would 50rwkw be worth in an r32 gtst??

I had a r32 a few yrs back which made 125rwkw (i dont care how low you think this figure is) and ran a 14.1 with a slightly slipping clutch.

Ive just had my car tuned and was told it made approx 175rwkw on the same dyno. Now the dyno is known to read up to in one case 40rwkw low, so i cant trust reading other ppls power figures to time run. With a decent run and the fact i have a very good clutch now rather than when i had a stocko on the original car what time do you think it would run realistically?

Thanks for your help.....Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/160577-whats-50rwkw-worth-down-the-strip/
Share on other sites

to get a 14.1 with 125 kw is pretty impressive, maybe too empressive. did you get it dyno'd at the same place? i have 169 rwkw and with street tyres i have a 13.7 and i have been told that is good. 14.1 is a good time for a skyline, so with the right driving you probably get low 13's

I think one of the guys in a R32 GTST(RB25turbo) with around 180-190rwkw did a 13.6 pass.

well there is only one way to find out go down to the strip and see what it can do,

you can never trust dyno figures its a tool for tuning :(

You need to mention trap speeds. ET varys on power deliver and traction.

For example, I ran 13.3 with 215rwkw. Sounds about normal depending on what type of car and weight. But I did it at 114mph. So initially you could think that that was about right maybe a bit slow. Then when you mention the MPH you can see that there is power there but it hasn't been used efficiently.

to add further i ran a 13.4 with a trap speed of 103.5mph, the 10mph difference but only 0.1 sec slower. his car is more powerful showing greater speed but mine was a tidier run, more effective use of power. could be slipping clutch, wheel spin, poor launch, slow gear change, missed gear, bad tune.

Chris Davey: Is that 215rwkw in a Corona or R32 R33 GTS?..

Bretto:

When you do your run as Nismo_God has said; 60ft, Trap Speed & ET are all important factors to consider when judging your power.

have fun! >_<

thanks for the reply's ppl.

firstly yes it was at the same shop.

gt shortie i agree, thats why i asked, not sure if i wanna run it for fear of breaking something :ermm:

it was just under 100mph, but it was yrs ago, but i remember that. like i said the dyno is known for reading very low power figures. thats why im not worried about the 125rwkw (on that note, he had a stock standard r32 gtst on the dyno and it made 80rwkw, that should give u an idea of how low the dyno reads). after reading the rb25 turbo upgrade post on here and seeing some power figures some ppl are making with dyno graphs it makes me laugh.

Edited by bretto
  • 2 weeks later...

I can't see you breaking much with 175rwkw. Take it down and let us know how you go.

To add to the thread. How much difference do people think 50rwkw will make at higher power levels?

GTShortie I think got a 12.7 or 12.6 last sunday and I got a 12.4. I think he has about 50rwkw less than me but probably a lighter car. Mine is 1580 with me and a full tank.

The lower the initial power (ie 125rwkw) the more difference the extra 50rwkw will make.

ie; The improvement in time from 125-175rwkw (maybe 0.5-0.7sec) than you will if you go from say 700-750kw (maybe 0.1 or 0.2sec).

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

As someone mentioned you cant say 50rwkw equals x amount of tenths of the time as it depends on the initial power the 50rwkw was added to.

A 50kw increase on a 500kw car is a power gain of 10%. Whereas in your case the 50kw going from 125 to 175kw is a 40% power gain.

And you cant compare to other peoples results as you mention the dyno you went on is a little out of whack.

Which leaves only one way to find out.....

burnsie - as was stated the mph will be a true indication to power - your 13.9 was a very clean run, everything worked well.

my car just with the cat back did a 14.5 @ 95 with a 1.9 so around the 140-150rwkw

Chris - that 114mph is good for mid to high 12's!!!

  • 1 month later...

found this thread and have some more to add...

i ran a 13.426 with 1.970 60ft at 103.5mph with 169rwkw

now i rana 13.081 with 1.911 60 at 104.25 with say around 206(boost was higher then previously dyno'd)

so with an extra 35-40kw i made up 0.35 of a second....and not even 1 mph faster....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
×
×
  • Create New...