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Help. Re Stock Hi Boost Mod

Basti

By Basti,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted

hey guys im in the process of doing the boost mod thats in the diy section and i have a problem. i decided to run the wire into the cabin and mount a switch on the dash. pretty simple you might think but then again so am i :( . i got the switch from supercheap and its one of those that has a little led that lights when its on. its got 3 pins on the back of it and has this diagram on the back

post-30915-1173965623.jpg

i cant seem to get the led working when the switch is closed (or at all). i have no idea about electrics/electronics and im now very confused. my understanding is that i run the wire that was spliced into the black solenoid wire to the 'supply' terminal, and then a wire from the 'load' terminal to the closest earth point. i dont understand what to do with the 'led/earth' terminal though. how does it fit in? somebody help!

btw where is the best earth, nearest to the dash on the right of the steering wheel

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RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I'd imagine that the "supply" for a switch originally would have had positive power going to it, so that when you close the circuit (switch "on"), the middle leg would output power to your device (coupled with the "earth" that is constantly grounded for the LED).

With the grounding mod, you're not running any positive power to the switch, you're just using it to break/complete the grounding... as the stock ECU grounds the solanoid wire to run 7psi over 4500rpm.

So... as it is now, you'd use LOAD to the chassis, and SUPPLY from the actuator/solanoid (or vice-versa, doesn't matter). Close the circuit, solanoid sees ground... runs 7psi.

I don't think you'd want to use the EARTH leg, cause it runs through the LED... i'm not sure whether it would allow anything through? Diodes are a one-way deal but i'm not sure how that would work with passing a ground through the LED and out to the SUPPLY. Who knows? Someone does! I believe the EARTH is purely for the LED to illuminate when positive power is put to the SUPPLY side, and as the power comes out to the LOAD for whatever you're turning on, the power also goes to the LED, which has its own ground. You have no positive power, so it won't light up.

RANDY Veteran

RANDY

Posted
Posted

I'm quite tired, but... if the LED was reversed, you could possibly run power to the EARTH side, and use the LOAD to go out to the actuator, and then use SUPPLY for a ground to chassis.

That would allow the LED to illuminate when you give the switch some ground (turn switch "on"), while giving ground to the actuator.

It would also light up when you had it "off" and went over 4500rpm, as the LED will see ground from the actuator when the ECU gives it some.

I *think*.... but you'd have to swap the led around, cause as I said... diode... one-way.

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol. if im awake the rest of y'all should be too. ;)

thanks alot randy. that was really bugging me. i think that i will have it the way you said with the led lighting up. now i just gotta figure out how to flip the led. much appreciated man :(

jeffworld2 Veteran

jeffworld2

Posted
Posted

load and earth go straight to chassis, this means the nearest bolt on a metal part of the car.

supply comes from the wire in the solenoid plug. perhaps you cut the wrong wire. trial it both ways. do not unplug this plug, just cut one wire on the solennoid side of the plug. if you leave the car loom alone you can always buy a new part if you want to sell it unboosted and wont get confused if something goes wrong.

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
  • Author
Posted

did like you said randy. took the switch apart and flipped the led. it worked well. i took power from the ciggie lighter cos theres 2 many wires under the dash and i dont want to f*k anything up.

anyhoo, now i just gotta epoxy the switch into the coinholder and i can put it all together. i'll post pics wen finished.

thanks again guys

btw jeffworld: i did have the right wire. it was just the switch that was the problem. and bout ur other point, that was my plan anyway. hence y i went to the trouble of modifying my coin holder rather than drilling holes in my dash. that way its just a clip in/out affair. thanks 4 the help though dude. much appreciated

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