Boost Controllers.

[Viper_r32]

My car will be going in to get the turbo high flowed next week and I need to get my self a boost controller

I was wondering if any one had any recommendations as I want something that has at least 2 boost setting. And I don’t really want to spend over $400

I saw this GREDDY PROFEC TYPE-S BOOST CONTROLLER on Ebay for $400

Are they any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...p;rd=1&rd=1

Any info appreciated!

[low200]

spec Soft

get a spec R, blitz is good with EBCs

Youll struggle to get a decent one for under $400.

[tridentt150v]

Go to places like importbitz, they may have s/h ones. Any good brand name will do the job, blitz, hks, apexi etc etc.

www.importbitz.com.au I think.

[Viper_r32]

I’ve been sifting through my hpi mags and found the Gizzmo IBC. It looks pretty cool. 4 boost settings with a real-time digital boost display. Retails for $400. hpi have given it a pretty good review.

Any one else heard of these.

[Grant W]

I have the Apexi FC boost controller that works awesome but ultimately you need the Apexi FC to control it.

[tridentt150v]

I don't think you'd need the power fc to control your ebc/evc. They do different things really. The power fc has an inbuilt boost controller that you can disable if you already have a boost controller or you can use if you don't have one. But neither is dependent on the other. Mind you, the power fc will help with your tune and this may help the boost controller to do a better job.

[tridentt150v]

I’ve been sifting through my hpi mags and found the Gizzmo IBC. It looks pretty cool. 4 boost settings with a real-time digital boost display. Retails for $400. hpi have given it a pretty good review.

Why would you need four boost settings??

I have 2, one for all my driving 16 psi, and one for wet days 7 psi. This is basically an effort to stop wheel spin, a softer take off or turbo wind up.

You will drive on your maximum boost setting [but NOT maximum boost] 90% of the time. There is absolutely no advantage in driving on a lower setting, fuel economy etc isn't improved. Look at it this way, you have 18 psi as your normal setting, you are driving down the road at 120km/h, your still only using say 3 to 5 psi of boost [actually you'd be lucky to be boosting at all], the point is you are not using 18 psi. The only time you are using 18 psi is when you flatten it and hold it flat until boost peaks ie 20 seconds or more. And the only time you will do this is when you want or need to. ie overtaking a couple of b double semi's, showing off at the lights, track days. This is why you leave your boost on the higher setting, you never know when you need the power, and playing around with buttons may be too late!! Added to this, nearly all good boost controllers have a scramble setting for 10 seconds. You set this parameter yourself. What you do is nominate a peak setting that your motor can handle for 10 secs with no problems, say 22 psi. So you are overtaking the B doubles and you go WOT, your boost will actually try to go to 22 psi for the first 10 seconds then it will settle back to your normal setting of 18 psi. This will give you a little extra oomph as a first up hit. I'm not sure [i can check if needed, I did know more but have forgotten, you do all this stuff and set up your evc and then begin forgetting it] but I believe that this scramble setting may only work in the top gears, not in 1st or 2nd. This then ensures that your motor actually has a load on it for some protection against overboosting/reving.

I hope this helps.

[Viper_r32]

Why would you need four boost settings??

I have 2, one for all my driving 16 psi, and one for wet days 7 psi. This is basically an effort to stop wheel spin, a softer take off or turbo wind up.

You will drive on your maximum boost setting [but NOT maximum boost] 90% of the time. There is absolutely no advantage in driving on a lower setting, fuel economy etc isn't improved. Look at it this way, you have 18 psi as your normal setting, you are driving down the road at 120km/h, your still only using say 3 to 5 psi of boost [actually you'd be lucky to be boosting at all], the point is you are not using 18 psi. The only time you are using 18 psi is when you flatten it and hold it flat until boost peaks ie 20 seconds or more. And the only time you will do this is when you want or need to. ie overtaking a couple of b double semi's, showing off at the lights, track days. This is why you leave your boost on the higher setting, you never know when you need the power, and playing around with buttons may be too late!! Added to this, nearly all good boost controllers have a scramble setting for 10 seconds. You set this parameter yourself. What you do is nominate a peak setting that your motor can handle for with no problems, say 22 psi. So you are overtaking the B doubles and you go WOT, your boost will actually try to go to 22 psi for the first 10 seconds then it will settle back to your normal setting of 18 psi. This will give you a little extra oomph as a first up hit. I'm not sure [i can check if needed, I did know more but have forgotten, you do all this stuff and set up your evc and then begin forgetting it] but I believe that this scramble setting may only work in the top gears, not in 1st or 2nd. This then ensures that your motor actually has a load on it for some protection against overboosting/reving.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the info that’s a huge help. Now I finally understand what a scramble setting is. That’s awesome. I was original thinking like 7 psi for the wet and 14ps daily driving and then a third when I want to smoke you at the lights (just kidding)

But I guess I do only need 2 setting.

thanks heaps I really appreciate it

[race_snooze]

smoke us.... If I dont sell the beast I ll see you at WSID with some semi slicks lol, i pulled a 13.4 with 18's and some serious neg camber with only the stock turbo. 171 kph over the traps now the new turbo mmm should be great with slicks...

[SKYLVIA]

why dont you just marry WSID...

wasnt it around this time last year you were challenging someone else? was it leigh?

Edited March 16, 2007 by SKYLVIA

[Paragon]

Get a Greddy Profec B spec II from the sponsors for $390 delivered like I did. Works like a charm, holds boost very well and quite easy to setup compared to AVC-R and the like. I road tuned it myself in about 20 mins on the freeway whereas most shops wanted to charge about $400 to tune the AVC-R on the dyno.. mind you a canberra workshop also quoted me $450 to fit and tune by Profec B too..

Here is the sponsors link

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=154474

Edited March 16, 2007 by Paragon

[MANG]

i just bought one of those, i wish netbank didnt make it so easy to transfer money, i keep using it

[leech_]

That was always going to be fair challenge his 218rwkw v my 172rwkw at that time lol

and now that i am down my set of 17"s with good rubber i would struggle even more.

why dont you just marry WSID...

wasnt it around this time last year you were challenging someone else? was it leigh?

[widebody32]

Even if you buy a cheaper boost controller you can have 4 settings on most as setting one: boost controller off (normal boost 7psi)setting 2: boost controller on about 10psi setting 3: 14psi and setting 4: scramble mode for overtake 16psi, but you can use your own settings for what boost you want to run. Always get your boost setup either on the dyno or on the street with an air fuel ratio meter as the more boost you put in means you are putting more air more air needs more fuel and also with higher boost there is a chance of detonation which can be caused by a number of things including ignition timing too high,bad fuel,high compression ratio due to boost or lean fuel ratio. It may cost a little more but if your engine goes you will be up for ten times that amount. Also buy the best controller you can afford as they they will have a tighter control on the boost curve, and the upside is it gives you room to go higher in the boost if you want to later on.

[Grant W]

I don't think you'd need the power fc to control your ebc/evc. They do different things really. The power fc has an inbuilt boost controller that you can disable if you already have a boost controller or you can use if you don't have one. But neither is dependent on the other. Mind you, the power fc will help with your tune and this may help the boost controller to do a better job.

I have the Apexi FC Boost Control Kit which is an FC Addon not a stand alone boost controller like the Apexi AVC-R as seen here http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=105

[tridentt150v]

I have the Apexi FC Boost Control Kit which is an FC Addon not a stand alone boost controller like the Apexi AVC-R as seen here http://www.slidingperformance.com/catalog/...products_id=105

Sorry, my bad reading, yes, an apexi solenoid for a power fc is different.

[yaf28f]

Just a question for you guys.

When you guys get an aftermarket Electronic Boost Controller, what do you guys do with all the orginal Stuff?

EG, I have an Apexi AVC-D that came with the car when I got it but it's quite messy under the hood. do any of you guys do any clean up or just let the orginal solenoid stay there?

Michael

[tridentt150v]

Not too sure what you mean. If you mean the old std stuff is still kicking around under the bonnet or your installation is untidy, then yes, clean it up.

[widebody32]

Just a question for you guys.

When you guys get an aftermarket Electronic Boost Controller, what do you guys do with all the orginal Stuff?

EG, I have an Apexi AVC-D that came with the car when I got it but it's quite messy under the hood. do any of you guys do any clean up or just let the orginal solenoid stay there?

Michael

If you have an aftermarket boost controller then you can get rid of the standard solenoid and just cable tie the wiring away. I just did a engine bay clean up for trooper on his s2 r33 gtst. He has posted up some pics in the nsw forum if you want to check it out. It may give you some ideas on how to do it.

[yaf28f]

If you have an aftermarket boost controller then you can get rid of the standard solenoid and just cable tie the wiring away. I just did a engine bay clean up for trooper on his s2 r33 gtst. He has posted up some pics in the nsw forum if you want to check it out. It may give you some ideas on how to do it.

Hey thanks for that, I'll check it out.