Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The price is pretty good if you don't need to worry about organsing to buy it, you can get it cheaper elsewhere depends on how quickly you want it. $240 seems okish for an install hope that also includes them configuring it as well ???

---Updated---

Nengun = AU $ 503.36 + shipping = $546.30

Greenline = AU 503.735 + Shipping = ???

But keep in mind that these ones you may also have to pay import tax etc so i would actually buy it from him unless you want to get one second hand.

Also depends on if you are going to buy another ecu later. If you are then an AVCR is probably overkill. It does some of the simple things that an AM ecu does.

If you can get a boost controller for sub $400, then you are wasting $200? but if you don't intend getting an ecu for a while then the AVCR is a good cheaper compromise.

Also depends on if you are going to buy another ecu later. If you are then an AVCR is probably overkill. It does some of the simple things that an AM ecu does.

If you can get a boost controller for sub $400, then you are wasting $200? but if you don't intend getting an ecu for a while then the AVCR is a good cheaper compromise.

I was told the PowerFC boost controller plug in was not soo good.

I'd love for someone to actually show me some funky stuff with the AVCR when i do my high-flo upgrade.

The standard ECU will remain in place, I doubt it will ever be replaced. But it is being retuned by CEF11E once the turbo is finished being high flowed. I’m also getting a bigger fuel pump put in. so I think I should be pretty happy with the final product. Edd at Integra tells me the turbo should have no problems doing 220+ rwkw. But as far as I know I will probably need bigger injectors. As I think the standard RB20 items will only flow enough for around 200rwkw

I was told the PowerFC boost controller plug in was not soo good.

I'd love for someone to actually show me some funky stuff with the AVCR when i do my high-flo upgrade.

I wasn't saying not to buy a boost controller. The pfc one is OK, but basic, you would better with a dedicated evc no arguments from me there. What I was saying is that an AVCR is a boost controller plus a boost response controller. This is also done and done much better by a pfc.

If you aren't getting a pfc then its no problem = spend an extra $200 and get the AVCR.

If your plans include a pfc then get a $400 boost controller and put the $200 you save towards your pfc.

PS See this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=162435

re: spiking?

My understanding from the manual, is that once you start to spike you need to work on Solenoid duty timing and the like.

Of course this requires more work and testing, but i plan to let people far more knowledgable than i tune the bejesus out of it at the time.

I-Colour - very nice. Haven't read all this thread but I just had one fitted and I think it's the "ants pants". Yeah it has heaps of functionality and 4 boost settings which may well be deemed overkill. However, I like it 12, 15, 18 and 22 psi. It's going to be nice to go to the track and just select channel 3 (18psi) 300 awkws, boast or boost :)

It's extremely precise and very easy to use, configure/set. Gets my vote also for the amount of info that is displayed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...