Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 89
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

OK Jack has just helped me tow my car to another panel beater. Things seem much more optimistic now.

I definitely want to fix it assuming it can be done for the amount i want it done for. The radiator support panel is probably repairable. the rest depends on how much parts cost.

I definitely need:

- 2 headlights

- Bonnet

I may need:

- Front bar + grill

- LHF guard

- Radiator

- A/C condenser + piping

- Radiator support panel

Please PM if you have any of this stuff around

Guest INASNT
Originally posted by MaXiMuS007

OK Jack has just helped me tow my car to another panel beater. Things seem much more optimistic now.

I definitely want to fix it assuming it can be done for the amount i want it done for. The radiator support panel is probably repairable. the rest depends on how much parts cost.

I definitely need:

- 2 headlights

- Bonnet

I may need:

- Front bar + grill

- LHF guard

- Radiator

- A/C condenser + piping

- Radiator support panel

Please PM if you have any of this stuff around

man skyline33 can get u all those spare parts for preety cheap, just came back from his mates workshop and they got shit loads of skyline engines and body parts!

Max dude, sue the frigging compliance engineer. If you can prove that the car was complianced with the dodgy bumper (ie. you didn't put it on yourself), I think this is definitely a case of negligence - the complaince engineer has breached his duty of care by signing off a car that did not pass ADR. The consequence was clearly foreseeable. However, you may not be able to recover full cost due to contributory negligence on your behalf, since you caused the accident.

Whatever happens, good luck dude.

Thanks Henros, I was thinking along the same lines, i.e. contributory negligence, as clearly the damage would not have been as great had the bumper support been attached properly.

The relevant statute for motor vehicles is the Motor Vehicle Standards Act 1989 but in it it refers to the ADR's which I couldn't find online. I wanted to get copies of the relevant ADR's before I got too carried away.

I did not put the bumper on, thats how it came to the country and thats how it was complianced. Clearly the duty of care for the engineer exists and it was breached. Although I knew that the front bar was aftermarket, I did not know of the changes to the vehicle's structure that facilitated its installation or its inadequacy for Australian regulations as I do now.

Would buying an imported car come under the Goods Act? Could this be considered "a good of unmerchantable quality"?. It is reasonable that I relied on the skills of the compliancing engineer to assure the structural stability of the vehicle. And surely it is not reasonable that during my inspection of the vehicle that I remove the bumper bar to inspect whats underneath is it? Thus it is considered a hidden defect. Two of the four tests for goods of a merchantable quality fail. Here the importer is considered the manufacturer, however it was not his fault as he wouldn't have known the changes to the underlying chassis, so maybe this doesn't apply then.

Should I succeed in some sort of action, however, it would open the "floodgates of litigation" for anyone with an aftermarket front bar who has an accident to claim damages from the installer or manufacturer. Then again, that is precisely the reason why the government has changed to the RAWS scheme, so maybe its justifiable.

It's definitely worth considering.

Does anyone have some definitive legal advice for me? Of course I claim responsibility for the accident itself but the damage is beyond what would have occurred to an ADR compliant vehicle.

mine was a jap front bar, not that thin, not exactly thick, but it did nothing in the collision. The problem is more from the cutting of metal from the supprts than the bumper itself.

have a look at photo no. 7 again, see the 2 rectangular cut outs in the metal? Then notice that the major bending in the bar happened at those points. Not a coincidence. In fact, the bars bent upwards at the cuts!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m here solo don’t have any hands to help so haven’t hit it with a timing light 
    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
×
×
  • Create New...