Jump to content
SAU Community

Engine Conversion

rad100

By rad100,
in South Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
Posted

hey,

i have been thinking about putting a rb25det engine into my r32! is it a good choice?? or not? would the power be better than the rb20det in the 32? would be good to get some opinions and even ppl who have done it!! thanks guys/girls....

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161068-engine-conversion/
Share on other sites
heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Most definately yes it's a good idea. A lot of people on these forums have done it and haven't looked back. The lighter weight of the 32 and the extra power the RB25 gives equals a hell of a lot more of a fun ride. Do a search on the forums, I'm sure you will find a fair bit of info, I know for a fact I saw a thread today about it but for the life of my I can't find it!

heslo Grand Master

heslo

Posted
Posted

Not sure on the price buddy, I haven't looked into it myself but keep in mind, does that include the RB25 gearbox also?

As for Regency, I don't think it's a problem as long as...

A) You let them know

and

B) Make sure your brakes are capable

But just to be sure, call them and find out :mellow:

Ryanrb25 Grand Master

Ryanrb25

Posted
Posted

i put an rb25det in my 31. Best thing i ever did. rb25s are such great motors. Id check with regency also, may need to get engineers cert coz of increased in motor capacity, power etc. Definetly worth getting rb25det box. rb20det one will last a while but not forever!

Pauly33GTS-t Veteran

Pauly33GTS-t

Posted
Posted

if u buy a Rb25det box make sure the synchros between 3rd and 4th aint f**ked. if so ull be using red line shock proof like me till u need a rebuild of the trans or just new synchros put in and still a >1500 job.

Sinful Grand Master

Sinful

Posted
Posted
ok jms have quoted me $5500 for rb25 supplied and fitted!! is that good or do u recomend somewhere else???

Yeah thats not a bad price but still shop around at Nisswreak and Zimports for prices

Not sure on the price buddy, I haven't looked into it myself but keep in mind, does that include the RB25 gearbox also?

As for Regency, I don't think it's a problem as long as...

A) You let them know

and

B) Make sure your brakes are capable

But just to be sure, call them and find out :happy:

Bigger brakes are always a good thing and with regency I thought all you had to do was swap the engine numbers over but could have changed now and need to get the engine converstion approved

Hope it goes well :stupid:

Absent Community Regular

Absent

Posted
Posted

Yeah Ive done my research on the r32 rb25 conversion, 5500 is a bit much for just the engine supplied and fitted. You can pick up an rb25 + gearbox for 3000-3500 and most places charge between 1200-2000 for labour. Contact predator, he has his own site for the conversion and can help with any questions. The gearbox isnt essential unless you plan on going over 200rwkw.

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hey thanks heaps guy looks like u have gone out of ur way to help! its much appreciated! thanks guys!!! ALSO.... d1 garage quoted 5200 for series 1 rb25det with rb20det 5speed, and 5500 for series 2 rb25det with rb20det 5speed....

QUOTE:

To give you more accurate price we will need to see the vehicle here at the workshop to check everything is in good order to complete the conversion.

The conversion price will include new engine oil / filter, spark plugs, coolant, fuel filter, gearbox oil, and diff oil.

To drive in drive out fitting an RB25DET complete engine package and using your original RB20DET 5 speed box (providing its manual) will be $5200 for a RB25DET series-1 engine and $5500 for a RB25DET series-2 engine.

thats what they had to say!

ALSO is the engineers cert extra ontop of the engine/install?

Edited by rad33
DC_GTST Experienced

DC_GTST

Posted
Posted
thats a rip off in my books. i got my conversion done in a 31 over 4 years ago with a series 1 rb25det with my rb20det box drive in drive out for 4200. motor was 3k and labour was 1.2k. go to fours n more

Where's that located?

rad100 Grand Master

rad100

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

hey. i thought it was abit pricey.. ne ways would i need the rb25 gear box? and do they do engeneer cert and is it extra ontop of the install?? and weres the best place to go!? i just wanna know the exact costs?? like bit by bit and what i need to do! lol... i have FMIC, gtr fuel pump, and imthink the brakes r larger??

Edited by rad33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • S1_C34
      Stagea Front CV Axle Question

      By S1_C34 · Posted

      I ordered a GSP Front R/H Axle from here - https://justjap.com/products/gsp-premium-front-driveshaft-r-h-nissan-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-stagea-4wd#description It lasted around a year before one of the boots blew out. I'm lowered, but I have GKTech roll center adjusters. One year seems a little premature. I think I'm going to spend the extra money on an OEM cv axle this time. This website - https://tfaspeed.com/collections/nissan-stagea-wgnc34-x-four-parts/products/nissan-stagea-awc34-260rs-rb26-right-front-axle-drive-assembly Makes it sound like the readily available OEM CV axle will only fit 11.1999 Stagea and up (mine is a 2.1997 S1). The JustJap listing didn't mention any years or anything for the GSP axle. Amayama shows '11.1999' and up as well for that part number. As well as 'plastic boot type'. See attached picture. So I guess my question is, does that axle (39100-23U60) really only fit S2 Stagea? It's the front driver side. If it does, I'd love to buy that instead of rolling the dice on another GSP. I've found that OEM one cheaper here: https://www.partsfornissans.com/oem-parts/nismo-jdm-r32-r33-r34-skyline-gtr-r32-gts4-right-front-axle-3910023u60 and here https://www.nissanparts.cc/oem-parts/nismo-shaft-ft-drive-3910023u60 Just a little confused because the JapSpeed listing for the GSP front driver axle doesn't mention any specific years or anything and it fit my S1 Stagea fine. So will 39100-23U60 fit my S1 Stagea even though technically it says '11.1999' and up? What would have changed? Thanks.  
    • TurboTapin
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Thanks for the info. The only "Issue" I've had with the shifter is I always found the throw between 4th and 6th gear too close. I'm always worried to shift into 4th accidently and sending my motor to the moon. Adam LZ recently came out with a video and stated Serialnine revised their shifters to correct this and will change all the revised parts for 150$. Strangely enough, I contacted Serialnine right after and they denied it and said it's bullshit. I found that strange as he's a distributer. I'll keep this forum post updated on that saga.
    • Nightmare_mistress_R33
      CD009 RB Conversion

      By Nightmare_mistress_R33 · Posted

      Yep that is correct. It allows you to adjust the short throw range from what I can tell
    • TurboTapin
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • jez NF
      The Evolution Of "night Fury"

      By jez NF · Posted

      75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
×
×
  • Create New...