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Skip first 2 paragraphs to get to the problem :) ->

So i rocked up to matt spry's this morning all excited about getting my SAFC2 tuned.. was looking forward to enjoying some nice mid range power gain and seeing how the car pulled on the dyno. Matt did his normal engine checks before starting and noticed there was no water in the resovoir. Said might just be running a little low so he added a litre or so.

Once he wired up all the sensors however, the water temp sensor was reading a little high for idle. he checked his settings, and put the car up to 2000 revs for a minute or so and the temp increased to about 100 degrees. He wasn't happy at this point so we turned it off and he started poking around the radiator hoses and noticed there didnt seem to be much water. Did a quick pressure test and immediately noticed it wasnt holding pressure. Put a squirt of water in there and once the system was pressurised again it started to bubble out the top of the radiator. (not in gushes, just a slight dribble). There were also some water stains around the top of the radiator and the surrounding areas.

So to cut it down, my radiator has a leak in the top tank. The rubber seal along the top is also not in great nick. Matt said i had a few options.. I could price getting this one repaired, look at getting a replacement from a wreckers or something, or find a new aluminium one to get put in. The car is still driving, but i have to be careful and keep water with me at all times. But this does mean i cant really go for a long trip to get this all fixed, so whatever i do it has to be on the coast. Does anyone have any ball park figures for the different options i have ? Or any other alternatives? Also if anyone can recommend a radiator palce or a mechanic that would do a good job on this on the gold coast, would also be great. Gavin Wood is obviously first choice, but he is on the north gold coast, so i have to get it up there and then be without a car for a day or more.

Also very glad I took it to matt and not an unknown. If someone didnt do all the checks matt had done, the problem would have easily gone unnoticed (dash temp guage never moved). Im guessing the problem hasn't been around for a long time or I would have noticed something.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers guys

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radiator swap should easily be manageable by yourself.. It's only two hose clamps and two bolts that have to be removed.

I'd just get a cheap just-jap unit.. but you can get the end-tanks reconditioned. Gavin Wood has contacts for that sort of thing (think he repaired my radiator once).

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yea i think i can put in a radiator myself so i guess i need to source one. Just Jap are out of stock on their r33 rads and i dun really wanna order one from nengun and wait 3 weeks (although the car should be quite driveable for a while - the leak is very slow). i might have to do some phoning around to see what people have.

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bunta - yes please mate that would be awesome. has it been used much ? how would it/the JJ ones compare vs the standard r33 radiator (better im assuming?). Im not at home at the moment, but ill fire you a PM tonight/tomorrow to get some details and hopefully organize a date/time this week to get it.

cheers

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bunta - yes please mate that would be awesome. has it been used much ? how would it/the JJ ones compare vs the standard r33 radiator (better im assuming?). Im not at home at the moment, but ill fire you a PM tonight/tomorrow to get some details and hopefully organize a date/time this week to get it.

cheers

Hasnt been used at all it was meant for my R32 but they sent me a r33 one

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ah ok thats cool. does anyone know how these ones compare vs the stock cooler ? I'm not really in need of an upgrade as tihs car will never see more than 250kw at the wheels (goal within 18 months) but dont want troubles down the track

will fire you a PM as soon as im home bunta - would love to have this sorted so matt spry can have another go on friday. thanks again.

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