Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy all,

been reading thru a ton of info about upgrading the auto in my sedan and i am tossing up over a stage 2 versus 3 kit. I know the difference and have an idea as to the pros and cons of each, but i still have a few quick questions;

If its left in 'D' with over drive still engaged (stage 3 in question), is it like a manual car trying to take off in 4th? I am assuming that the car is still going to move, but its going to overheat the daylights outta of the box right?

The stage 3 obviously allows me total control over gear changes, but if i decide to snap from 1st up to 2nd for example, how quickly is going to bump it up to the next gear?

Exactly how does the manual valve body give the driver control over when and where the gear change occurs when the auto ecu runs the changes when in drive in a normal gearbox? Am i correct in assuming that the valve body 'manually' over rides this process?

And by that i mean it alters the way the pressure of the auto fluid is moved from 'a' to 'b' thru the application of a seal or something along those lines, therefore over riding the ecu?

I realise that the above may sound a little disjointed, but i am trying to get a better understanding on the way everything works before i decide on which way to go.

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161802-r33-auto/
Share on other sites

stage 2 = automatic shift kit

stage 3 = manualised autoamtic shift kit

stage 2 just hardens up the shifts but the auto does the rest still

stage 3 you have to shift for it to change gears

when i rang mike @ MV, he said he only recommends the stage 3 for engine conversions where the auto computer can't control the gearbox

if you have any Q's on how it works then call mike, he is the best person to speak to and is very happy to help explain it

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161802-r33-auto/#findComment-3004797
Share on other sites

So i have done a run around and know about prices and bits and pieces, but has anybody got a stage 3 (full manual body) that they can share their experiences with me???

For example, how is in gear acceleration in full manual mode? Normally, u put the foot down, it has a think, kicks down a gear or two and then starts to haul. U pull it back a gear and floor it, does it react the same way?

Is general drivability affected?

Any differences in fuel economy or the way it behaves when u get up it???

Surely someone out there has some personal experiences they can share. Good or bad.

Cheers,

Chris

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161802-r33-auto/#findComment-3024579
Share on other sites

I've got a sequential manualised-auto with a stage II shift kit. Using MV Automatic's electronic shift controller you can disable the auto ECU to make it behave similar to a manual valve body. As the name implies having a manual valve body requires it to be driven like a manual just without a clutch so, you wouldn't leave off from the lights in 4th :P

There's no O/D & kick down function so, now O/D button off=3rd & O/D on=4th...think I got that right as, I use a ratchet shifter. NB: If you have the O/D on (4th) still engaged & then shift gears the trans will flare & can shock the trans when you correct it back into gear :happy:.

With med-high loads the shifts between gears are instantaneous & crisp but, off throttle & low loads gear changes can sometimes be a bit jerky. Also, for me going down from 4th->3rd the engine brake doesn't engage & not sure if this is the same with a 4speed manual valve body. But, yes when you down shift & plant it, it will haul, as well as, chirp the wheels even in 3rd :wave:.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161802-r33-auto/#findComment-3031364
Share on other sites

I use a ratchet shifter

But, yes when you down shift & plant it, it will haul, as well as, chirp the wheels even in 3rd :) .

Awesome shifter. I want the same thing. If u dont mind me asking u, how much was the elec device and stage 2 kit worth together versus a stage 3?

How did you wire up the o/d on a ratchet shifter? How difficult was it to get into place?

I imagine that your set up is the same as a full manual one, but did it affect anything like an increase in revs at certain speeds. Eg, atm 100klms is 2650ish revs. If i go full manual set up jobby, i dont think that this would change

PS - Cheers for your input dude

Edited by sxc33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161802-r33-auto/#findComment-3032444
Share on other sites

The B&M pro-ratchet is an excellent shifter & only downside is trying to do quick 3pt turns or if a motorkhana stage requires reversing :) :).

At the moment the O/D (4th) is wired up to the POWER switch but, plan to fit one of B&M replacement gear knobs which has a button & activate it that way.

Nah, the auto gear ratios have remained the same.

If you haven't already seen there's an ongoing group buy for the upgraded valve body from MV Autos & think Guy (4door_sleeper) has updated prices > Click to link

There's also some good info in that thread so, if you have time worth a quick read & I'll PM you approx prices for the various other items needed for the conversion. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/161802-r33-auto/#findComment-3032562
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...