Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Pod... Waste of money at your power level.

Get a decent full turbo back exhaust and fmic on to it.

Grab a cheap bleeder and push boost up to 1bar on the dyno.

You may have to replace the fuel pump if it hasn't already, mine began leaning out on ~13psi and was dangerously lean at 1bar.

That should keep you happy for a little while.

You may want to look at a pod or CAI in to the stock air box. I have done the cai in to the stock airbox.

Then save your penny's for a highflow of sorts (slide or hks2530) and either a full ecu or remap. Remap is the cheapest way out of it.

Pod... Waste of money at your power level.

Get a decent full turbo back exhaust and fmic on to it.

Grab a cheap bleeder and push boost up to 1bar on the dyno.

You may have to replace the fuel pump if it hasn't already, mine began leaning out on ~13psi and was dangerously lean at 1bar.

That should keep you happy for a little while.

You may want to look at a pod or CAI in to the stock air box. I have done the cai in to the stock airbox.

Then save your penny's for a highflow of sorts (slide or hks2530) and either a full ecu or remap. Remap is the cheapest way out of it.

Ok I know the car has a aftermarket Aplexi exhaust on it.

What is a bleeder? I am replacing fuel pump now, old one died. Replacing it with a stock one. What is a CAI? Highflow is a turbo? How much for a remap? I keep hearing about the Aplexi power fc. Is that expensive? How much do tuners usally charge just to tune?

Sorry learning about tuning now.

Help

Ok I know the car has a aftermarket Aplexi exhaust on it.

What is a bleeder? I am replacing fuel pump now, old one died. Replacing it with a stock one. What is a CAI? Highflow is a turbo? How much for a remap? I keep hearing about the Aplexi power fc. Is that expensive? How much do tuners usally charge just to tune?

Sorry learning about tuning now.

Help

Bleeder = Manual boost controller = Non electronic

CAI = Cold Air Intake

Highflow is a standard turbo that has been hi flowed to allow up to 18psi &/or around 250rwkw without dying.

The rest just depends on who you go through for the tune etc

Edited by so_tred
Bleeder = Manual boost controller = Non electronic

CAI = Cold Air Intake

Highflow is a standard turbo that has been hi flowed to allow up to 18psi &/or around 250rwkw without dying.

The rest just depends on who you go through for the tune etc

So which is better a CAI or pod? So I can hook either one of these two to my stock Air flow meter without having to retune?

Is it cheaper to highflow my turbo or buy a new one?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
    • Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...
    • No. Turbo shuffle and surge/flutter are not the same thing. Specifically, on a GTR, turbo shuffle has a definite meaning. On a GTR, the twin turbos are assumed to be the same thing and to operate the same way, exactly. In reality, they do not. Their exhaust sides are fed and exhaust a little differently, to each other. Their inlet sides are fed and exhausted a little differently, to each other. Consequently, when they are "working" they are often at slightly different points on the compressor map compared to each other. What this means, particularly when coming on boost, is that one of them will spool up and start producing extra flow compared to the other, which will put back pressure on that other compressor, which will push the operating point on that other compressor up (vertically). This will generally result in it bumping up against the surge line on the map, but even if it doesn't, it upsets the compressor and you get this surging shuffle back and forth between them That is "turbo shuffle" on a GTR. It is related to other flutter effects heard on other turbo systems, but it is a particular feature of the somewhat crappy outlet piping arrangement on RB26s. There are plenty of mods that have been attempted with varying levels of success. People have ground out and/or welded more material into the twin turbo pipe to try to prevent it. Extending the divider inside it works, removing material doesn't. There are aftermarket replacement twin turbo pipes available, and these exist pretty mush purely because of this shuffle problem.
    • You can temporarily* use lock collars to keep it in place until you can do the bushes, back the nuts off, slide them in, snug back up. *temporarily is often for ever
    • Thanks for the quick reply. To be clear, when you say turbo shuffle do you mean turbo flutter "stustustu" or referring to something else? I had thought they were the same thing. When I wrote the post my intention was to say it wasn't a flutter/compression surge sound. My understanding was that a flutter sound would be occurring when throttle is released, whereas I can keep the throttle in the same position for this noise
×
×
  • Create New...