Jump to content
SAU Community

Q45 Throttle Body Wire Up

ax53b70p25

By ax53b70p25,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)

The Nissan TPS uses two 3 wire connectors on it. One is on a short section of harness about 6 inches long and handles the actual throttle position signal and the other made to the body of the sensor is for the idle validation circuit which you also need or you get a code (51 I believe). With the sensor standing up, with the mounting tabs on the right side and the TPS wiring harness coming out of the bottom while your looking at it the top 2 pins in the connector made in the sensor body are your idle validation pins so disregard the bottom pin. Your TPS wiring harness that comes from the bottom of the sensor will terminate at a 3 prong plug and have red, white, and black wires in it. The wires colors correspond with these functions:

Red is the 5 volt input wire

White is the TPS signal wire

Black is the sensor return wire

With the connector lock up the white wire will be in the center, the red wire should be on the left, and the black wire should be on the right. When adjusting this sensor I found the best TPS voltage was around .385 on the sensor check but this car vary from car to car. i used this on the SUPRA we built for AutObarn.

Edited by URAS
STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
cmon there must be someone who has wire up a q45 throttlebody!!! i need to know where the vacuum lines go as well HELLLLLLLP

depends on your application, i dont usually use them, the large ones are actually water lines for throttle body heating.

q4521bg.jpg

Edited by URAS
ax53b70p25 Experienced

ax53b70p25

Posted
  • Author
Posted

GREAT I WIRED IT UP LAST NIGHT!!!!!!!! AWESOME!! i instamtly felt the difference a little more laggy about .5 of a second delay, but may be due to my 3inch piping all the way from turbo. will ppost up the wire up to r33gts.

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      So could it be assumed it has been installed intentionally with potentially a power FC boost controller kit? 
    • Gareth87
      What should I do next to hold the head on

      By Gareth87 · Posted

      Had my rig on Matt's dyno at PITS the other day. After a few years between tunes I added a few sensors and swapped intercoolers. Result. 553hp at 26psi. Not bad for an FJ20 that was built in 2007. The problem.. It filled the overflow bottle on hard runs which leads me to believe the head gasket isn't sealing. I have a coolant pressure sensor which was reading cap pressure at 22psi and occasionally overrunning to 23/24 psi on deceleration after a pull. It was not spiking. It has arp2000 head studs and a cometic gasket. As its been 18 years in service, I pulled the engine out and head off. Everything looks good but we obviously have an issue. Where I'm at.. Years ago I had the same issue, I checked the stud tension and they were all over the place. Some at 60 to 70 and some up near 90. I nipped them all to 100ft lbs and this stopped the water push until now. I believe this compromised the gasket back then. What do I do? 2 options are..  1) I bought arp 625+s, which I could put in with a new gasket. Thinking Kameari this time, reassemble and try again. 2) strip the block, get fire rings machined in with copper gasket and try that. I do not want to push it more than 28 to 30psi. I think the turbo will be out by then anyway. (G30-770). My other concern is the long term ability of a copper head gasket. Are they streetable for years? I feel like a new gasket with the new studs will probably suffice, but I don't know. Any thoughts welcome and advice on copper gaskets and fire rings. Thanks!
    • MBS206
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm a fan of the JZX110, and the Aristo. Big cruiser cars, and with the factory cars, super comfortable and feel like you're driving an armchair! And the JZ motors are a pretty nice engine too, especially with some basic mods.   The import process, and the need to be able to trust people, and the fact there's so many scammers around is what ever puts me off wanting to go through that ordeal!
    • GTSBoy
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't care for these at all, but at least the underside looks straight and not rusty. A good basis for a long life. Many cars from Japan have been lifted with forklifts and f**ked almost irrepairably.
    • GTSBoy
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not dumb or dodgy. You can build a perfectly good boost controller from a pressure reg, a relief valve (looks same same as a reg if all from Norgren or SMC, for example) and a check valve. I ran one for years. Only superceded with  EBC because I could get one for cheaps and wanted finer control.   THis mod is certainly not a sketchy boost mod, provided the boost is kept below the "spin to death" threshold of the turbos.
×
×
  • Create New...