Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Fellas and Ladies

I'm new to the Skyline scene and am looking at buying a R32 GTR (once i've got the money together..not too long hopefully)...

I have been researching on this site ALOT to see what people have done and what power figures/times they are achieving..

What has been confusing me is that many people have been stating "....with USUAL SUPPORT MODS..."

What are these mods? (I have used the search button but didn't find anything relevant)

Mods that I have in mind for my GTR are;

*34 N1 turbos

*Power FC

*Turbo back Exhaust

*Filters

*Bigger FMIC

*Cam gears

I am hopefully going to try and run a dual stage boost controller (most prob turbosmart).. I want to run approx. 10-12psi for daily cruising and around 18-20psi for track days and drags.... Is this controller good or should i go electronic? And are these boost levels OK or should I be running more?

Also, what power figures am I looking at on these boost levels? and is there anything else I should do to make it more reliable? (Btw.. It won't be running hi boost very much)

Thanks alot for the advice Guys and Girls

Sorry about the million questions..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162248-support-mods/
Share on other sites

Well in my opinion, "usual supporting mods" means you can supply enough fuel to safely make the power you're aiming at without it spontaneously leaning out and popping your motor. Also in the same basket on an R32 is a full exhaust from the turbos back but you listed that already. In your situation you're gonna need to replace the fuel pump and think about injectors to be honest. Mainly due to the age factor of those parts in an R32.

Personally I would go Nismo fuel pump and Nismo or SARD injectors. I wouldn't go any larger than 650cc injectors since you're not going for massive power and keeping the bottom end stock.

Also I would steer well clear of manual boost controllers as a long term solution for a GTR and stick to a well known jap EBC like the Blitz, HKS or even Greddy.

To make it more reliable get it tuned properly and cross your fingers. It is an old motor with an unknown history after all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162248-support-mods/#findComment-3013508
Share on other sites

Thanks for the input fellas..

What about the oil and water pumps? Should they be changed if they haven't been before?

I forgot to mention that it will have a stock bottom end unless purchased with internals done..

Could i get some advice from people who have done these or similar mods to their car and what other mods they have done..

HKS99 - these power figures are RWKW? And how much would you say is safe boost?

Thanks alot... Keep the input and advice coming...

Much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162248-support-mods/#findComment-3017270
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

EBC? PRofec B Spec II, Blitz iBC (or something), APEXi SAFC2... I have a PRofec B and its fairy good for the price you pay, but not anywhere as near as bling-factor as the SAFC.

Other mods?

Splitfire coilpacks and make sure your spark plugs are upto date (buy new if you havent changed them yet)

Fuel pump, injectors (I went with a NISMO FPR as well as Nismo pump and injectors)

Cams to go with the cam gears, my pick is TOMEI for cams (260/9.15... keep it safe) and gears.

Then for the big money mods clutch (Nismo for me... or Jim Berry), suspension (Bilstein for me... or TEIN/APEXI N1/HKS), wheels and tyres (unless you want to drift etc.), brakes (I got basic DBA4000's for now, might brembo up later).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162248-support-mods/#findComment-3072459
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...