Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi y'all

Got some splitfires in my 34, so don't need these anymore.

I was having the all-to-common R34 coil pack issues. I'm presuming it was just one that was on the blink. I couldn't see/find any hairline cracks.

I suppose if you know electronics at all, you might be able to test these somehow?

I know with the splitfires that the S2 R33 and NEO R34 coil packs are the same model. So these might be able to be used on a S2 R33 as well. Anyone confirm?

Location: Melbourne

Price: $150 (i'm pretty sure they are $100 each from Nissan. I checked before buying the Splitfires, so these are 1/4 of the price :))

2002410588448496338_rs.jpg

2002404985406652544_rs.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/162701-fs-r34-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

Yes, I can confirm that these R34 coil packs can be used in series 2 R33's.

Because I have done the reverse! I am running series 2 R33 coils in my R34! They have the internal ignitor and will bolt straight up. They are a little wider on the base, but still fit up ok (doesn't interfere with anything)

Good Luck with the sale and a free bump!

how long's a piece of string :laugh:

ok. Well, car came from japan with 48,000km's on the clock. Condition of body, steering wheel, gear knob, seats, etc... "seemed" to indicate that this was likely. And despite the all too common, R34 coil pack issue, the car hasn't had any other dramas.

The car also has had a respray about 5 months ago. All original panels, one of the straightest R34's that workshop had seen.

Soooo... i'm tending to believe the km's from Japan. I also added another 1,000km's (trip from syd to melb) onto the 48K when i picked the car up from the compliance workshop in Sydney. So the coils did 49,000km's i guess, and very little down here in melb because i couldn't register the car for aaaages (long story). I had swapped over to split fires before i even rego'd the car. So in total, a little less than 50,000km's i guess.

At least one would need some DIY attention.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...